gilber33 Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 This old thread says only pre 98 racks, but other sites just say e36 and don't say that 99s wouldn't work. Does the 99 rack just not work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 New head bolts in and started putting on some of the fresh bits and pieces. Starting to look more like a complete engine. jc43089 and Jdesign 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 You might need to tilt the rack inside the sub frame to get it to line up. I had to bend the tabs on mine which caused the rack to tilt. Once you tighten it down it shouldn't matter. The motor looks great, its a shame you have to take it back apart. 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 On 7/4/2018 at 4:11 PM, gilber33 said: This old thread says only pre 98 racks, but other sites just say e36 and don't say that 99s wouldn't work. Does the 99 rack just not work? Any update on the rack situation? Will be doing the same thing shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 The rack is in. On 7/11/2018 at 11:39 AM, Jdesign said: The motor looks great, its a shame you have to take it back apart. 😕 I plan on dropping it in whole. So I can keep on working on it little by little. On 7/11/2018 at 1:24 PM, SteelBlue said: Any update on the rack situation? Will be doing the same thing shortly. It's all in. My issue with it was none of the write ups mentioned that the steering column does not have the slot for the pinch bolt, so you can use it to get the knuckle to the right length. Since I did this without the engine in the car I didn't remove the entire knuckle from the column, otherwise I would have known that. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Anyone know how to remove this shift knob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 1 hour ago, gilber33 said: Anyone know how to remove this shift knob? With fire! Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 52 minutes ago, jc43089 said: With fire! Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw? Someone else suggested that. I'm going to try that next. I'm doing a short shifter anyways, so if I don't find a set screw, then sawzall it is. I tried pulling it off and that thing is not budging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 You don't have to get the shift knob off to remove the shift lever, it comes out the top. The white cup around the base needs to rotate and then will pull up, assuming you already removed the selector rod underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Yeah, I suppose I could have done that too. I just used a hammer and beat the selector out of the knob. I'm not keeping either, so I didn't really care. Also decided to switch focus to the drivetrain so I can get the engine back in the car. New clutch, rebuilding selector rod stuff and shaft seals for the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Earl said: If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested I haven't ordered any of that stuff yet. I was going to get the Z3 shifter/ZHP knob kit from ECS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 So, I know this is where the two sensors run across the front of the engine and there's a plastic cover for them. I assume this is where they go, but I dont remember how that cover or wires are secured to the front timing belt cover, but I assume it has something to do with these two holes. Any direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 gilber33 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 That is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Another one: Where does the circled gasket go? I see it included in timing kits, but I do not remember removing a gasket like this while removing the timing belt components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 That one is either going to be the front main seal or rear main seal housing gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal. gilber33 and B C 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 1 hour ago, jc43089 said: Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal. OK. That's what I thought because it looks like the right shape. But it was really confusing that it is including in timing belt cover kits. Wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 More input wanted. I used a victor reinz head gasket and now I'm reading quite a bit of info about them being pretty bad quality. Also a lot of people who said they're fine. Anyone able to weigh in on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 They’re fine. i ran one with boost. OEM is best but VR is just fine. At worst you may have a tiny external oil leak on the exhaust side but many M20s do that and its a lucky break if yoir M20 doesnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Hmm. If I'm going to put a different one in, now is the time to do it. I read Goetze is the OEM replacement. For $50, it might be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 They are different. The BMW gasket is something quite different than VR, Goetze, and Elring Klinger in my observations. i had heard similar but comparing them side by side they were different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Ended up pulling the head back off last night. I'm glad I did. I didn't clean it as well as I thought I did and found some old hg remnants. Took more time cleaning it up. Going to get the Goetze head gasket and will feel better about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 More. Going to be doing the input and output shaft seal on the transmission. I read its advised to use thread sealant on the splines, threads, and backside of the flange of the nut. OEM stuff is the curil k2, does anyone know of a good product that can be had locally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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