Jdesign Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 19 hours ago, gilber33 said: Has anyone done a removable core support on their e30? As I get ready to pull the engine for the 3rd time to check the clutch and to put in the rebuilt m20, a removable core support sounds awfully tempting. I think @Sam_Holzmann has? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 44 minutes ago, Jdesign said: I think @Sam_Holzmann has? Didn’t @GunMetalGrey make one as well? I also would like to do this lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 Well if any one can chime in with some pointers or if it's worth the work that would be greatly appreciated. From what I could dig up it doesn't look like there's one way to do it and you kinda have to dive in, cut it out, and then figure it out from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 30 minutes ago, gilber33 said: Well if any one can chime in with some pointers or if it's worth the work that would be greatly appreciated. From what I could dig up it doesn't look like there's one way to do it and you kinda have to dive in, cut it out, and then figure it out from there. blast from the past gilber33 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 1 hour ago, KaiserRolls said: blast from the past winner winner chicken dinner. Thank you! This doesn't seem too bad. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 Two suggestions #1 Use rivnuts on the chassis side to bolt the core support back in with. It's handy as hell #2 Make sure to slice things to you can remove your core support without needing to pull the fenders. #2.5 Have a couple beers, slicing into your core support feels like it should be more calculated than it really is, and a little grinder operation lubricant never hurts. I used a new core support because mine was bent, so I had the luxury of truly destroying it. Jdesign and gilber33 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 I was planning on using rivnuts. Seems much easier than welding nuts for bolts. I would much rather cut it out without having to pull the fenders. I assume that if I am slicing it so it can ultimately be removed without needing to pull the fenders I shouldnt need to pull the fenders off to do the initial cuts? I will make sure the mini fridge in the garage is stocked before I start cutting. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 Hey guys- so what am I looking for to check both the universal joint on the driveshaft and the CSB? The driveshaft is out for inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 The joints need to move smoothly with no grit, binding, or increase in resistance. When you grab the yoke and the shaft and check it for freeplay, there should be none. CSB should have no cracks in the rubber and the bearing should be tight and quiet as it rotates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Got the block back today after a hone. Started cleaning up the pistons. One is kinda done and two others are soaking in carb cleaner for the night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 In regards to the two connectors Chris identified, the first 2 things to check when an M20 isnt starting after a teardown is 1) did the fuel lines get swapped? 2) did those two connectors get swapped? IMO Cleaning up an engine is the most satisfying part of wrenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Crank and new main bearings is in and the pistons are all cleaned up. Doing the crank was way easier than I assumed it would be. Which always makes me feel like I did it completely wrong. 😩 Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 After doing some more reading, I’m going to pull the crank back out to clean the bearing seating surfaces a little more thoroughly on the block and caps. And then reinstall the bearings and crank. Better safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 1 hour ago, gilber33 said: Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing. Did you check clearance with plastigage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 10 minutes ago, gilber33 said: Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones. Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said: Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two! I knoooowwwwww. I guess I can check the clearances. I’ve taken back apart once. I know you’re supposed to do it it dry but I’ve already lubed it up. Will I be fine taking the crank out and wiping down the bearings to remove most of the oil? Also, can anyone confirm that the bearing clearance should be between .03-.07 mm? edit: bought some plastigauge. I’ll pull the crank off and wipe down the bearings and measure the clearance section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge. .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Pistons back in. All clearances are on the bottom end of what is required in the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 43 minutes ago, gilber33 said: All clearances are on the bottom end allow myself to introduce...myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 On 6/20/2019 at 10:07 PM, gilber33 said: Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge. .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right. I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while. How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand. YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 16 hours ago, jc43089 said: I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right. I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while. How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand. Lol. Yeah. .038mm. I remember very random car details and then I’m like what’s my kids’ names again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted July 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 Slowly but surely. Building our 2yo a playhouse for her 3rd birthday and gotta start on a garden shed so this has taken a back seat unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 Playhouse build thread time patsbimmer1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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