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gilber33

1989 325i Project Thread

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7 hours ago, straight6pwr said:

it calmed the 'cloud' that would build up, for sure, but did not completely eliminate the dust. i didnt have dust settling on my work piece, as far as I could tell. but you have a much larger volume of air to move and a larger work piece. (i was in a 10x12 room) 

That’s good to know. I think I need to be careful with a positive setup because I am also doing this in winter and need the garage warm for the paint. Having to fans blowing in cold air might not be ideal. 
 

When I crack the overhead door open to place the fans under it there is an opening at the top of the door created, so I wonder if I have more fans blowing out than in if it that would be enough to not truly create negative pressure where all my plastic would fly off the walls, but enough to pull the paint cloud out of the garage. 

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6 hours ago, gilber33 said:

That’s good to know. I think I need to be careful with a positive setup because I am also doing this in winter and need the garage warm for the paint. Having to fans blowing in cold air might not be ideal. 
 

When I crack the overhead door open to place the fans under it there is an opening at the top of the door created, so I wonder if I have more fans blowing out than in if it that would be enough to not truly create negative pressure where all my plastic would fly off the walls, but enough to pull the paint cloud out of the garage. 

definitely may take some dampening of the system to get it just right. cardboard over portions of box fans to reduce flow. you may have to enjoy a nice cigar to test the system.

temperature wise, you might be SOL. whether you pressurize to force air in or vacuum to force air out, you are still attempting to displace the same air from inside, which has to be displaced by the cold air outside.

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25 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:

definitely may take some dampening of the system to get it just right. cardboard over portions of box fans to reduce flow. you may have to enjoy a nice cigar to test the system.

temperature wise, you might be SOL. whether you pressurize to force air in or vacuum to force air out, you are still attempting to displace the same air from inside, which has to be displaced by the cold air outside.

Agreed. Neither situation is ideal in Wisconsin this time of year.

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6 hours ago, KaiserRolls said:

Are you keeping the car the same color as before? You probably already mentioned it but I suck at reading 

Yes-ish. I'm painting it Meteor Gray Metallic from Eastwood. I felt it was their closest match to Delphin. To get the Delphin color matched paint from Automotive Touchup would have been about $400/gallon. For it being my first time I didn't want to learn how to paint a car with $400 paint. 

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4 hours ago, gilber33 said:

Yes-ish. I'm painting it Meteor Gray Metallic from Eastwood. I felt it was their closest match to Delphin. To get the Delphin color matched paint from Automotive Touchup would have been about $400/gallon. For it being my first time I didn't want to learn how to paint a car with $400 paint. 

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Holy crap. I get my paint mixed by my twin brother at Orileys. I get it at cost for 100-150 a gallon.

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6 minutes ago, Rekpoint said:

Holy crap. I get my paint mixed by my twin brother at Orileys. I get it at cost for 100-150 a gallon.

The paint from Eastwood is $122 for color and activator. Automotive Touchup is slightly more: 

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I have one gallon of the Eastwood stuff, but will be ordering a second gallon to have just in case. So two gallons from Eastwood will still be $125 cheaper than one gallon of Delphin. 

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8 hours ago, straight6pwr said:

going way back here, did the hardware for that ebay sway bar fit correctly? I bought the same one, wondered if what they provided worked or i need to source a more reputable mount. 

I wasn’t blown away by the hardware fit and finish, but for how cheap it was compared to others, I wasn’t going to complain. It worked and it’s still there.  

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I wish these pictures showed the hours of sanding I've spent on it. I did 220 and 320 on it last night and have 400 left. I had found a write up on how to finish primers for paint on Eastwoods website and they said to finish the polyester primer for paint to use 80 grit to knock it down, and then continue with 180, 220, 320, 400, and then DA with 400. I mean, I don't know if that was a really old article, but how much primer do they think is on the car? I followed that and not only did the 80 grit remove all of the primer in a couple spots but left huge gouges (which, of course it did, it's 80 grit). So I had to respray the passenger side of the car, hood, and trunk lid to cover the scratches and to put more primer on the spots where it took it all off. This time around I started with 220 and it was more than enough to get the primer knocked down and start smoothing it out. 

With that said, I'm back on track. The car is almost done being sanded. The hood, trunk, and front bumper are done. 

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I'm surprised to see the front lip still attached, and what appears like an un-taped sunroof seal!
I look forward to seeing it with fresh paint though! 
I was just discussing with my roommate how I miss painting stuff, prep work is somehow very enjoyable! 

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3 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:

I'm surprised to see the front lip still attached, and what appears like an un-taped sunroof seal!
I look forward to seeing it with fresh paint though! 
I was just discussing with my roommate how I miss painting stuff, prep work is somehow very enjoyable! 

I'm ditching the black along the bottom of the car and will have the door and bumper trims be the main "accent". 

The sunroof doesn't work right now. The lever is off the car and it needs to be adjusted. I was planning on removing the sunroof panel when this is done to do a new seal and to adjust the panel - you can see it's not sitting flush on the roof. 

 

Sanding hasn't been terrible. Using the long durablocks has been very annoying since there are a lot of horizontal breaks in the car panels to get some good motions. I've been doing the vast majority of it by hand. That I find enjoyable. I like being able to feel the car as I sand it. 

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Some questions about my sunroof: 

The car came with the handle removed and I never really looked into it. So I’m trying to figure out where I’m at with it. 
 

Here’s what I have:

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I tried putting what pieces I have back together into the crank assembly but all of the gears where very loose. Is there supposed to be a gear on both sides of the crank assembly? And looking at this picture, it looks like there’s a gear I’m missing. Like there’s a smaller gear inside the hollow gear that I have. 
8041DA2A-ECE5-4366-AD20-D4994806828A.png

Not knowing much about these: do I just get the crank and install that or do I buy the whole thing with the cables and everything as one large assembly. 
 

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To remove this assembly, apparently called a cassette, you have to remove the front headliner panel, and in order to remove the front headliner panel, you have to open the sunroof. So that’s fun. Apparently there’s an emergency crank for sunroofs, but I can’t find any info on it or how to do it. 

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35 minutes ago, gilber33 said:

To remove this assembly, apparently called a cassette, you have to remove the front headliner panel, and in order to remove the front headliner panel, you have to open the sunroof. So that’s fun. Apparently there’s an emergency crank for sunroofs, but I can’t find any info on it or how to do it. 

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/289774-can-i-open-an-electric-sunroof-manually

on second thought you have a manual sunroof so this might be different. Sorry 

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