Jump to content
WI BIMMERS - Wisconsin's BMW Community

Joined the Club Today


SteelBlue

Recommended Posts

Ive had some really stubborn motors in my days. I would say dont be afraid to shake the F out of that motor and see if they wiggle down in there. Make sure all of your bolts are loose first; ie; mounts top and bottom, and brackets that mount to the motor. Make sure there is enough threads in, but loose enough that everything moves. 

Dont be afraid to put your purse down and use your hands. 

Theres a few threads on other forums complaining of the same issue. 90% of the answers are shake N bake.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't done anything with the car for almost a week now, engine is just hanging in the bay not mounted.

Gotta try to get the motor mounts to work. Would the E34 M5 mounts be any more "forgiving" when it comes to mounting?

I have to figure out if I want to keep the car in the garage so I can work on it over the winter or move it to a storage unit. If I keep it in the garage, then the daily has to sit outside.

Not sure how much motivation I'll have when it's January...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Jdesign said:

Better think fast

 

2 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:

The E28 mounts are cheap and work just fine. 
If you want to try to get a rip in before winter I would order a set and toss em in.

I don’t anticipate driving the car this year. But moving the car if I decided to store it somewhere would be easier if the motor and trans were in the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
4 minutes ago, m42b32 said:

Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them?

I used a different set of condor ones that I had laying around. 

I think there was issues with header clearance that may not have been noticed before, as the headers are up against the body. This would certainly cause some issues with motor mounts not wanting to sit quite right. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said:

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. 

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, HipMF said:

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.
Image result for e36 center support bearing stuck

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.
Image result for e36 center support bearing stuck

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. 

You can get tight to the sholder if you cut a spiral. Or just take it to a shop and let them eff it up so you don't have to :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe stating the obvious here, but have you tried heat? i'd get that bearing red hot

the 3 CSBs (e34 and e30) i've pulled in the last few years came off with a 3-jaw/impact gun

second idea = load up a 3 jaw puller to near the braking point then rap the bearing with as much force as you can to see if the strike pops it loose. autozone/advance auto have some pretty hefty 3-jaws you can rent.

hell just put the bearing against a steel vise or concrete and hit it to try and 'oval' it a bit. i can't see it hurting the steel spindle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.