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jc43089

BMW Sienna 2.5i build

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Thats a tough call. 

powerful stock fan + proper shrouds are a compelling argument to stay stock but my gut says its easier to resist heating up with more water capacity than it is to remove heat by convection.

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7 minutes ago, snap said:

Thats a tough call. 

powerful stock fan + proper shrouds are a compelling argument to stay stock but my gut says its easier to resist heating up with more water capacity than it is to remove heat by convection.

I was planning to use one or 2 Spal puller fans, the stock fan is PWM controlled from the Toyota ECU and is excessively thick so it would hit my water pump shaft.  I could remove the threaded end of my water pump but it's already installed.  

What about this.  A tank that will add volume to the system, although I would think to install it on the cold side of the radiator and have the fan switch right at the radiator outlet.  Somewhat like an E type Jaguar.

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upload.aspx?width=1170&height=0&crop=aut

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On 3/28/2018 at 11:12 AM, snap said:

my gut says its easier to resist heating up with more water capacity than it is to remove heat by convection.

If the cooling system isn't large enough to dissipate heat at an equal or greater rate than the engine is capable of putting out, then I think you're asking for trouble. Not that I envision this thing getting flogged continuously for a long periods of time, but adding more coolant capacity as "ballast" still seems like a half-ass solution.

That being said, I'd wager that the van's stock radiator is fine.

Edit: Actually, you're more likely to overheat sitting in traffic than anywhere else, due to lack of airflow. But again, extra coolant capacity might buy you a little time, but it doesn't solve the problem.

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I know, I've been busy with work, 3 kids, gardening, chickens, hogs, and house projects.  This will get done though.  I have been working a little here and there with getting the steering system situated.  The parts from Snap are going to work excellent.  I am working next on machining some parts for offsetting the inner tie rods up to avoid hitting the subframe.  I think it will work good, hopefully it turns out in real life like it looks in my head.

The oldest and youngest chillin with the hogs.

L2ME2Rk.jpg

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Oh and add moving to the list of time usage.  I got this hauled to Wisconsin labor day weekend.  The family, hogs, chickens, and most of our stuff is moved.  Crashing at my parents house, I hear that is what cool millennial age folks are doing so I wanted to fit in.  Working on finishing things and getting the Iowa house sold.  Now I don't look so odd with my Wibimmers euro plate in the window driving around Iowa and Minnesota...  Although I still have Iowa plates on the car...

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Not really an update, but I dug the van out of the snow.  Working on figuring out wiring schematics.  The first step will be to just run the engine and later figure out what to do with instrumentation and how the van electronics will function without the ECU.  I still have a strong running 3MZ-FE if anyone needs one.  Perfect for an MR2 swap...

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We bought a house in June and are moved in.  I will post some pics soon.  I need to bring the van over still.  It acquired a bees nest behind the front bumper so I guess that is a sign I haven't been working on it.

I bought a used but not very old 10k asymmetrical Rotary lift from a friend that was closing down his shop.  I need to drill a test hole in my garage floor to check for thickness before I figure out a plan for installation.  If the floor isn't thick enough I will add a "shop" stall to the end of the garage with a higher ceiling to accommodate the full lift height.  The existing part is 9'6" so it would still get quite a bit of height for cars but not so much for vans and trucks.  The existing garage is 26' deep by 32' wide.  It has a centered 16' door which is odd but it works.  The lift bay would have to be angled some to work with that.

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