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jc43089

Fancy Stancy 325is

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4 minutes ago, Daggerty said:

Do you think the bolt snapped because it was loose? 

Like the new stainless steel bolt its shinny

It is quite possible that it was loose the whole time.  I could not get the broken piece extracted though and ended up drilling it out completely.  I will replace the bolt with a grade 8 or 10 regular one, stainless looks cool but is not great as far as strength.  I did not measure how long I would need so I borrowed several from work to try.  We build food equipment so everything is SS.

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On 6/13/2017 at 8:01 AM, jc43089 said:

Fun fact: the bolts holding the axles to the differential flange were all able to be removed by hand, yes I did not have to rotate the axles to get all 6, they were so loose I just reached around the axle and took them out with my fingers.  Pretty sweet.

 

Awesome. I love finding things like this after buying and driving for a few 100 miles. Your repair looks great!

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I got the injectors, they look good but I haven't had time to install them yet.  I am trying to get my boat ready for sale to free up some cash for the barn/shop project.  Last night was one step forward and three backwards.  I was filling coolant (2 stage cooling on the Volvo Penta I/O setup) so I could test run it after replacing timing belt, water pump, seals, etc and it was leaking coolant out of the heat exchanger housing.  So I had to drain the coolant and remove the heat exchanger to split it and replace the gasket.  I broke 4 of the 14 screws off even with torching and tapping on them.  Darn that galvanic corrosion...  So I brought it to work with me to extract after work today.  Fun fun.

 

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So the car has been driving great other than water filling up the cylinder 5 and 6 spark plug wells after a big rain.  It did it even with the beauty cover installed...  I guess I need to run the hose on it and watch where water is going.  the rubber ring that somewhat seals around the outside of the hole for the oil fill is missing so maybe the water is running onto the oil fill cap and then under the cover?  It seems far fetched but it happens pretty much every heavy rain storm.

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Just saw the post about the boat heat exchanger. Where's the dislike button when you need it??

Different chassis, but, the "elephant trunk" drain on the e30 firewall is responsible for similar behavior on a 24v e30. Whatever collects in the rain tray needs to drain through the elephant trunk instead of dumping onto the valve cover

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The boat is running great as of Saturday night, very late...  I had replaced the timing belt, engine water pump, seals on the front of the engine etc.  Then I couldn't get it to start, not even a pop.  So I installed the marine electric fuel pump that I had bought a while back, now I had fuel to the carb, still no start though.  So I took the carb apart and cleaned it, 44mm solex downdraft, it had some dirt in it but the jets looked good.  Still no start...  Double checked the timing belt because it drives the intermediate shaft for the distributor, everything lined up perfect.  I double checked the plug wires are installed correctly.  That looks great according to FSM.  I removed the distributor cap to see if I had somehow installed the rotor wrong, hmm it is not pointing to cylinder one when at TDC...  After rotating all of the plug wires clockwise one spot it runs perfect.  Apparently someone installed the distributor turned 90 degrees long ago and I never looked when disassembling it because it ran fine.  I learned my lesson on that lol.

 

Good thought on the drain.  It is probably clogged with leaves and junk.  I will check that tonight.

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Boat is sold!  More money for the shop!

I took the first long distance trip of the e36, 600 miles round trip to Road America last weekend for the Hawk vintage races, it exposed a few slight issues.  The bolts came loose on one exhaust flange to the catback, I will use locknuts next time.  I think the added heat blowing around under the car caused the fuel line to start leaking slightly at the pump, just enough to smell fuel and stop the car to unload the whole back seat to get a look.  A good reminder to replace the rubber fuel lines and pump/sender gasket rings.  And it was spreading oil everywhere causing an awesome burning smell, I thought it was coming from the transmission because I filled it before leaving but I figured out that it is engine oil leaking around the dipstick tube.  I didn't pull the dipstick yet but I am guessing the oring is junk or not even there.

On the upside I did not have any water in the spark plug holes after the last rain storm so the drain being plugged was causing the issue.  And I got 27 mpg driving to RA, calculated mpg not from OBC.  The OBC reads slightly more optimistic because the injectors flow a couple % more than it is calibrated for.

I am working on figuring out what to do to escape from the photobucket nightmare.  What a pain.

 

 

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Just driving it.  Hit 278k this weekend.  Other than my old truck this is our only car right now because the Volvo is all taken apart.  The rear tires rub a little when it's loaded with groceries and kids in the back!

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16 hours ago, Snap said:

original rings, bearings, and valvetrain that you know of ?

The vin tags match and it is so filthy that I am pretty sure it has never been opened.  I have some new cooling system parts to put in when I get time.  It does burn/leak a little oil.  Around a quart every 1500 miles I think.  No big deal.

 

6 minutes ago, patsbimmer1 said:

Your wife must be a saint.

I know, she wanted me to work on the Volvo and get that sold before I fix her new van lol.  Her main problem with it is that the power steering works about 25% of the time so parking lots are tricky.  It's weird because sometimes it feels normal and other times there is no assist at all.  Maybe the relief valve is sticky?  It is better than when I first started driving it but still not great.

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39 minutes ago, jc43089 said:

It does burn/leak a little oil.  Around a quart every 1500 miles I think.  No big deal.

That's not much different than my e36 with half the mileage, I'd say you're doing pretty well!

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I just ordered some General Altimax Arctic snow tires in 205/60R15 to mount on some bottle caps for the winter, bring on the snow!  They were a closeout on Tirerack, total including shipping 329.72 and then a 50$ rebate so 279.72 for a set of snow.  I have always run Blizzaks but I have heard good things about the General tires so I will see for myself.

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Just now, jc43089 said:

I just ordered some General Altimax Arctic snow tires in 205/60R15 to mount on some bottle caps for the winter, bring on the snow!  They were a closeout on Tirerack, total including shipping 329.72 and then a 50$ rebate so 279.72 for a set of snow.  I have always run Blizzaks but I have heard good things about the General tires so I will see for myself.

That's a great deal! I have those tires for my e36 and they're fantastic, especially for the price. 

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Not sure if it's too late to cancel your order, but if you want to save another $70 here ya go. The dual rebate is quite nice, and they have free shipping.
https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-tires/general-altimax-arctic-studdable/p/26128

Use their online chat to get them ordered, they are getting more in soon, so I would assume you can get that size. 

They are stellar tires for sure!

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Good deal, they should be plenty good for hooning to work an back!  Everyone thinks I will have a terrible time in my "little car with RWD"  When I always made it in the Maxima + Blizzaks before even when pushing snow with the bumper, and the guys with 4wd trucks are late...

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Hit 280k.  Oil change this weekend.  Snow tires are on, looking sexy with my bottlecaps.  I installed center m3 front control arm bushings.  Installed my UUC poly RTAB bushings from my other car, the ones in there were toast.  I found a stuck in the nut but not tight bolt on the rear left lower control arm where it connects to the subframe so I will cut that out and replace it.  Adjustable lower control arms which is nice.  I got 3 of the 4 adjustments freed up and anti-siezed, I just disconnected one end of the arm with a stuck end and turned that end twice as many turns.  Took my camber from about -2.8 degrees to about -1.5.  That should improve tire life and doesn't look as terrible with stock wheels and pulled fenders.  Coming in the mail today is a new ball joint for the rear upp.  It has quite a bit of wobble to it.  Hopefully get that done this weekend.

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Changed the oil, rebuilt the shifter linkage which turned out to be a mess.  The shifter I think is just a modified factory shifter, maybe from a z3, but the bottom had been machined for a couple bearings the were partly disintegrated and all the balls were gone.  I replaced the front shifter carrier bushings with delrin from Garagistic, and the rear bushing I cut all of the rubber out and installed the poly bushing from Garagistic.  I jumped on their black friday sales.  The rear poly is very hard durometer and was too big to allow the spring clip to go in so I had to sand some off with a belt sander, it is still really tight.  I drilled out the bottom of the shifter itself and turned a brass bushing to press in.  Then put it all together with my UUC Motorwerks DSSR.  It's tight now.  The only thing better I think would be a floor mount shifter with no carrier.  I took some pics but I need to find my Flikr password...

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