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jc43089

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Front half of exhaust installed, TB installed. Looked at the differential tag, it's a 3.15 LSD. Might be fried from vape filled drifting for almost 300k miles though, I took Thursday off work so I should get a good amount done then.

I need to:

Plug the turbo drain into the oil pan.

Install intake

Install back half of exhaust

Fill with oil

Secure expansion tank

See if it starts

Get it on the ground without the springs falling out

Attempt burnout

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

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It's alive! It was a bit of a fight, after getting everything put together It cranked but no power to the main ecu relay, fusible link on the small power wire was blown in the trunk. Then the fuel pump wouldn't run. I jumped the relay and kept unplugging/plugging the fuel pump connector until it took off. Then she fired right up. That confirms my thought that it hasn't run in 5 years. Thankfully it had no gas in it so I didn't have to drain anything. More pics later. I cut the muffler off. I am going to put in dual small glasspaks trying to replicate the Rouge DMS exhaust.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

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Yes, as soon as I weld on mufflers I will try driving it.  I ordered a pair of small glass packs from Heartthrob exhaust.  55 bucks shipped, They are only a 12" long body so probably won't quiet much but should reduce noise to a level so as not to get pulled over frequently.

 

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I got the mufflers welded on last night, I still need to attach hangers and weld the top half of the last connections.  The pipe is EMT conduit from the scrap bin at work, free stuff is good stuff.  Photobucket is off licking a window right now so I can't get pictures to upload.  I will try again later.  I couldn't get the fuel pump spinning again so I put the one from my other car in and ran it for a while, it warmed up properly and seems to run nice.  It idles high around 1200.  Not sure if the throttle stop is messed up in the throttle body from the PO trying to run it with no ICV or maybe it just needs to be driven so the adaptations can get set.  It does seem to hang a little before dropping back to idle, maybe I am just used to the light flywheel on my other m50.

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I have the ICV all hooked up properly now with new hoses, I do know that the throttle body does not seal perfectly because cleaning spray leaks through slowly when I was cleaning it.  I am not sure how perfect it needs to be though.  I might try my stock throttle body from my other car.

 

Only snap chat besties got to hear sound clips.

 

IMAG0257_zpsjydkwswj.jpg

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Here are a couple pictures of sealing up the oil pan from the turbo drain.  I don't turbo much but don't you need to drain above the level of the oil in the pan?  When I took the hose off several quarts of oil came out.  Also who uses self tapping screws for something like this... Oh wait, they are leftovers of the same ones that attach the side skirts...

Old oil drain contraption

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Holes in the oil pan

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Remounted and plugged

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matching screws on the side skirts...

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1 hour ago, jc43089 said:

 I don't turbo much but don't you need to drain above the level of the oil in the pan?  When I took the hose off several quarts of oil came out.

 

Yes, Ideally the drain goes into the block, but drilling into a replaceable/removable oil pan is less daunting than drilling into the block.

The oil level will spill into the drain hose and the drain hose will act as part of the oil pan. It is fine as long as there is adequate air space to keep it from becoming a problem as oil sloshes around on corners, That said, they could have mounted it a bit higher.

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With how much oil was leaking out of the turbo it may have been full all of the way back.  And it never even ran like that lol.

I took it for a spin last night, drives better than expected for being so low.  It is feels darty because of too much camber and it idles high/surges when warmed up.  It actually idles too high all of the time, 1100-1200 while partway warm and then starts a slow surge up to 2000 when warmed up.  I will look at the throttle body stop because it might not be moving the TPS correctly, also the coolant temp sensor could be not reading warmed up to back off the enrichment.  My e30 would surge like this when the temp sensor connection went bad.

Transferring plates today!

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Nice! Have you done any work on your other e36 lately? Last i remember was a lot of rust repair.

On a stock ecu, a manually set idle speed via TB stop screw will have the engine trying to fuel and time the engine as if its at partial load since it sees a TP and RPM above what it expects for the idle settings. So it is not applying the idle advance and fueling that will help it to have a stable idle

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Nope the other one is sitting waiting for me to get the barn shop ready.  Someday...

 

I will check out the TPS and see what it is doing when the throttle is closed, it has probably been messed with because of how I found other things...

 

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1 hour ago, KaiserRolls said:

Must have a nasty cam

I wish.. 

Well I had to run home at lunch to pick up 25 chicks from the post office (bring your best jokes), and I got the plates transferred from the old car so I drove it back to work.  Seems to run well, LSD works too.  

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1 hour ago, jc43089 said:

I wish.. 

Well I had to run home at lunch to pick up 25 chicks from the post office (bring your best jokes), and I got the plates transferred from the old car so I drove it back to work.  Seems to run well, LSD works too.  

I had baby ducks shipped through the mail one time and a bunch of them died from the cold.  I have no jokes and your statement made perfect sense to me.

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15 hours ago, Daggerty said:

Mb they adjusted the throttle cable so its further open at idle.

I did check that and it has enough slack to close all of the way.

I drove it to work again today, the only problem is some tire rub in the back when hitting a bump.  And that someone threw away the cruise control actuator!!!!!  

Looking for some uncut lowering springs.  The Billies seem to still work, it isn't bouncy.

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