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jc43089

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45 minutes ago, Rekpoint said:

Curious how much of an improvement your rebuild of the shifter linkage did? I definitely am going to have to do that this summer on my car.

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Huge improvement, a DSSR and new plastic cup are essential.  The delrin front carrier bushings and poly rear carrier bushing are nice.  Might as well do it all "while you are in there"  Get the Turner rear poly bushing that was linked earlier that is already installed in a bracket.  The garagistic one is a pain, not worth the savings.

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Huge improvement, a DSSR and new plastic cup are essential.  The delrin front carrier bushings and poly rear carrier bushing are nice.  Might as well do it all "while you are in there"  Get the Turner rear poly bushing that was linked earlier that is already installed in a bracket.  The garagistic one is a pain, not worth the savings.
Will do. I also plan on getting a z3 short shifter and a zhp knob.

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Update on using the EV6 injectors, I finally got around to making some spacer rings to ensure that the injectors can't slip out of the fuel rail and cause a leak.  The original EV1 injectors had more plastic at the base so that even if you did not install the retaining clips the injectors can't go anywhere.  The clips mainly keep the injectors in the rail when you remove it.  The EV6 injectors I got could slip down enough to come out of the fuel rail if you pushed on them.  They also didn't have a groove for the clip, EV6 injector bodies are not all the same, some have enough plastic to cut new grooves for the retaining clips but these do not and they were the only thing I could find within 5% of the green injectors flow rating.  The are from a Ford Contour SVT.  You can see here how there is almost 1/4" before the plastic body would bottom out on the manifold, this picture is just from test fitting.

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I made 6 rings to put over the injectors to mimic the stock design.  .531 ID, .210 length.  The OD was .730ish because I just skimmed some 3/4 stock.  304 stainless because that is what's in the scrap bin at work.

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Installed.  There is a little wiggle room, around .010 - .015.  I feel much better about them now.

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I also fixed the coil pack studs on cylinder 5 that were held in with JB weld which was not sufficient.  One was already pulled out and the other you could only tighten finger tight or it would pull out too.  i used helicoils which worked well.  Other than the magnesium shavings from drilling/tapping the manifold make a huge mess sticking in the oil residue that coats everything on this car.  I didn't get any pictures but you get the idea.

In other news something is going funky, my gas mileage dropped to horrendous levels.  Like 15mpg.  I verified that no injectors are leaking, no external fuel leaks.  A brand new Bosch FPR did not help.  I replaced the O2 sensor with Bosch within the last 10k but maybe it's junk?  or maybe I need to send the injectors out to get checked.  They were Ebay "Refurbished"  with 6 of them for 60 bucks so I was a bit skeptical.  They are genuine Bosch ones but were probably just pulled from a junk car.

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I've had them in for several thousand miles.  Maybe the extreme cold, it seems intermittently running rich.  I don't leave it idling to warm up more than a minute.  Some days it runs perfect and some days the idle hangs like it's getting too much fuel.  I usually get 24ish mpg though.  Also sometimes getting off of the highway I notice a burning smell but that might just be leaked oil burning on the cats...

The poor gas mileage started before I did this but I added some 2 stroke oil about 100:1 to a tank of gas when the cold was extreme and it helped starting, it must seal and have better compression with a little oil mixed in but that tank is gone now and been refilled.

These injectors are narrow at the top so you can't dremel grooves in them.

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After you mentioned the cold weather that crossed my mind, I will check the resistance and see.  I have another coolant temp sensor at home too.  The engine does seem to be running rich.  It does not pop when switching to deceleration like it normally does either.  The revs hang during a shift and are slow to drop when disengaging the clutch.  It is quite possible it thinks it needs to be enriching due to a cold engine.  I would think if the o2 was that bad I would get a CEL but maybe not.  This is where OBD2 would be a little nicer...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I checked the resistance of the coolant temp sensor for the ECu and it seems fine, 330ish ohms when warmed up.  It appears to have gone back to normal now that the frigid temps have let up.  Also for the second round of cold weather I put a quart of 2 stroke oil in the gas and then filled up and it started just fine when previously it would not have.  So that's a plus. 

I need to replace the o-rings for the plugs on the back of the oil filter housing.  They are not available from BMW separately from the entire housing but someone on the internet says they are a 118 o-ring so i will order a pack of them in Viton material.  

We got a bunch of snow here today, super excited to drive home!

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  • 1 month later...

Seems to have fixed itself when it isn't miserably cold out.  Getting excited for warm weather.  Thinking about tires for summer, I don't want to break the bank, reviews on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 are excellent and it's only 93$ in 225/50R16.  https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Firehawk+Indy+500&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=25WR6FHI5&tab=Sizes  

Thoughts?  I will just be ripping to work and back but I would like to try out something beyond all seasons.  I have the Wibimmers standard General Altimax Arctic for winter so cold weather is not a concern.

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12 minutes ago, jc43089 said:

Seems to have fixed itself when it isn't miserably cold out.  Getting excited for warm weather.  Thinking about tires for summer, I don't want to break the bank, reviews on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 are excellent and it's only 93$ in 225/50R16.  https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Firehawk+Indy+500&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=25WR6FHI5&tab=Sizes  

Thoughts?  I will just be ripping to work and back but I would like to try out something beyond all seasons.  I have the Wibimmers standard General Altimax Arctic for winter so cold weather is not a concern.

I have them on my e30 (205/50/16, I think I paid like $85 per tire) and for the price I'm very happy with them. They definitely run wide, at least in the size I have (not sure on other sizes), but for me that was a bonus. They're basically the same tire as the Bridgestone Potenza RE003 in Europe/rest of the world. I had them at a few auto-crosses with varying conditions last summer (pouring rain/damp/dry) and had zero complaints, surprisingly decent grip in the wet too. 

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/13/2018 at 3:42 PM, m42b32 said:

I have them on my e30 (205/50/16, I think I paid like $85 per tire) and for the price I'm very happy with them. They definitely run wide, at least in the size I have (not sure on other sizes), but for me that was a bonus. They're basically the same tire as the Bridgestone Potenza RE003 in Europe/rest of the world. I had them at a few auto-crosses with varying conditions last summer (pouring rain/damp/dry) and had zero complaints, surprisingly decent grip in the wet too. 

Well I got a set in 235/45R17 which is the stock size for the Volvo, I haven't driven on them a whole lot but I like them so far.  

 

I did some work on this, I had been cruising fanless, I like living on the edge.  I got a Spal 16" puller with the gasket and brackets.  I installed that, and took out my HID setup that was acting funky and put regular H1 halogen bulbs in my low beams.  The beam is better so I think I will stick with them.  They are Depo headlights with I assume the stock projector.

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I got the old hacked off wires out of this bundle.  I wonder if I should try to figure out what the other dozen hacked off wires are...

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My little guy was helping.  3 months and a little bit.  He is much more chill than the girls were.

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We have been pretty much dailying this thing, yes you can fit 3 car seats in an e36 coupe, while I work on getting the Volvo ready to sell.  I don't know if it would work in a 4 door because they have to really be wedged in there.  I'll have to get a picture, it's pretty comical.

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  • 1 month later...

I did some work over the weekend, I made some aluminum rear subframe "bushings".  That was excellent for solidifying the rear end of the car.  And I also replaced all 4 of the control arm bushings/ball joints with all ball joints like the M cars have.  I have UUC poly RTAB bushings so it is tight now.  I have dimensions for the bushings if anyone needs to make their own, just message me.

 

Also i got new tires put on today, I got a set of the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 in 225/50R16.  After a 60$ rebate they were 352 shipped to my door from Tirerack.  Pretty hard to beat that.  The tires I had weren't great when I bought the wheels from Pat several years ago so I sure got my money's worth out of those.  A little DIY alignment tonight and it's ready for the road trip to Elkhart Lake on Friday!

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  • 1 month later...

Just driving it, 293k.  Recently it abruptly started taking a long time to build up oil pressure after sitting overnight.  I'm pretty sure the check valve is worn out or broken.  I ordered one of these replacements from Russia.  https://vanos-bmw.com/product/oil-valve-bmw-m50tu-m52-m52tu-m54-m56-11421713838  If you want a good chuckle read their poorly translated description, my favorite excerpt:

"As a result, when the engine heard the distinctive clip-clopping sound and on the dashboard there is a red oiler. Such failure is very dangerous for the engine, it misses in a timely manner a sufficient quantity of oil, as it takes a lot of time until the oil pump nakachatsya in a glass and gets into the engine. In the end, the start of the engine is converted for the owner into a repetitive nightmare."

I bought it through Ebay to avoid trusting my credit card with them in case their security is on par with their writing skills.

Too bad I didn't know about this when I replaced the filter housing gasket less than a year ago...

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  • 2 months later...

295k,

I swapped in a ZF power steering pump that I resealed, now I have power steering which is cool.

I had a fuel leak by the filter so I replaced the filter and hoses

The blower was squeaking so I removed the cowl cover thingy and the blower cover and oiled the bushings, good to go.

I swapped in a rebuilt starter, much faster cranks for better starting in cold weather (last winter needed a heat lamp under the engine and 2 stroke oil in the gas to get it going below 0)

I poured the oil out of the intake manifold that accumulates.  I think I should install a catch can...

And I also installed the Russian oil filter housing check valve.  That works really well.  Much better design and sturdier than the OE one.  No more 10 seconds of oil pressure light on every cold start.

Bought it on Ebay but this is their website, read fully for chuckles at awful translation.  https://vanos-bmw.com/product/oil-valve-bmw-m50tu-m52-m52tu-m54-m56-11421713838

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