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Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped


straight6pwr

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The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat.  I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop.  The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop.  This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.

Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out.  I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues.  It's worth the $20 investment!

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3 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:

The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat.  I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop.  The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop.  This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.

Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out.  I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues.  It's worth the $20 investment!

i use a 18v impact screw driver with a 3/8 drive adapter and it works well for most hardware that's not completely rust-f*d. 

are you using a MANUAL impact driver?!

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Yes, the manual impact driver that you smack with a hammer.  I'm telling you, it's magic if you know how to use it.  When I teach brake classes I show everyone how to use them and they're always amazed!  You don't have enough control over an electric or air impact and I found they strip the heads out to frequently with the inverted allen or phillips head screws that are used.  They over power the bit and the head.

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success on saturday, mostly.

rear brakes done. didnt do the subframe to chassis soft lines, they are impossible to get to without dropping the subframe. none of the how-to's mention this. :shrug

bled the brakes with a power bleeder. they are firm with the car off, but theres a lot of travel with the booster helping. they grab hard when stomping on it, though, so not sure if there is air still in the line, these pads just need to be bedded, or if this style pads just doesnt have much initial bite. doing a bedding procedure late tonight when the roads clear.
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engine back together. started up, bled the coolant system. systems go!

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oh wait, just kidding. one of the casting plugs on the oil filter housing sprung a leak. dripping fairly quickly. i could drain the oil, pull the alternator, pull the housing, replace the rubber o ring and all the associated gaskets, new filter...but i wont. I just JB welded the F*ck out of it. 👌 it has no purpose, so sealed is sealed. 
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gold theme coming together. 

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new tires mounted and got the summer wheels on the car. 
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she just needs a wash and vaccum before saturday. woo hoo, its driving season! 

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brakes 'bedded' and working great, no need for another bleed. my jb weld patch also held during the test. hopefully i will have a 'dry' engine this year instead of the mess from last. 

to note: i now know why i couldnt make the abs kick on during the wet autocross. its because the abs may not be functioning lol 

p.p.s. joe, we're going to have another epic shootout year in autox. my new tires are grippy compared to last years!

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I have a pack of o-rings for that, too late now.  I replaced mine last Saturday.  I don't know if only early cars had the o-ring seals.  My 2/94 has crush washer plugs, I think the same ones as the vanos access plugs.  The o-rings came in a pack of 25 so 11.5 more people can have a pair if they want them.

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yeah, i see no real point in that, but thanks!. they are machining access holes which can just be welded shut, so putting new o-rings in just will be a point of failure again in the future.

and you are correct, early versions had the plug/oring. not sure if there was a specific cut-off date based on each motor (m50/s50) but mine is also an early 94 date.

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  • straight6pwr changed the title to Hello. My name is Dan, and today my car is actually clean

and an update to my project list:

  1. find oil level wiring, or add it. SKIPPING THIS. I HAS DIPSTICK. 
  2. find washer fluid pump/sensor wiring, or add it. reconnect washer tank to hood hoses. 
  3. replace windshield with used OEM glass. 
  4. wire in electric fan correctly.  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210783
  5. permanently mount elec fan with bracket kit. DONE
  6. Buy ignition cylinder/key to match VIN. 
  7. Fix my antenna. z3 or e36 mast. 
  8. Shadowline window trim.
  9. Replace rear subframe bushings. Soft poly.

long term wish list

  1. adjustable trailing arm bushings
  2. bigger sway bars
  3. dedicated set of auto-x wheels/tires. 

 

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I had a bunny hole in my front yard with about 6 of them. I found this out as I was mowing the lawn and the ground suddenly gave birth to some furry little creatures. Fortunately I didnt mow over them, unfortunately a predatory bird knew this was coming and quick grabbed one as a snack. My wife was also watching as this happened and gave me the Lee Trevino Happy Gilmore look of shock and disbelief that I had somehow caused this travesty.

 

Love the photos! Excellent use of sepia, I normally am not a sucker for sepia but you have succeeded with it here

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  • straight6pwr changed the title to Hello. My name is Dan, and today I shadowlined
  • straight6pwr changed the title to Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped

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