Jdesign Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Not much of an update, but I installed half of the gauges and the lumens from the stock bulbs was far too dim. I ordered some LED replacements to see if that will work, but if not I will have to find another means for lighting. I am trying to reduce spotting and the yellow / reddish hue from a standard bulb. I will post pics once everything is installed, so far here is what I ordered; B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I installed those in my cluster on the compact and they were excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Where did you buy the bulbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Where did you buy the bulbs? Diodes Christopher. Diodes. jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 LOL now, now, gents. I got teh uber rare DIODES on eBay. $8 for all of those!! I only wanted 2 but why not buy 20 for the same price Vatozone charges for 2?! Any who they worked out great! I took a pic comparing the two, and then a few of them installed. Have a looksie... Old bulb on the left, LED on the right. Here you can see how clear and bright it looks. I was a little upset that I messed up cutting out the odometer cut out a little, so I will be printing new ones. I also noticed that due to the location of the LEDs inside the cluster, that the red/orange "alpina style" stripe on the RPM face got washed out(as seen above). So when I print a new version, I will have to make the color a little less transparent. If anyone has interest in me making you some gauge faces, let me know, as I am just experimenting right now, I can make you some really cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 So I haven't updated in a while, but I have been busy with a lot of other things besides my poor E30. Anyways I finally got around to dropping the rear subframe in order to Perform the following upgrades: _Poly subframe bushings _Install a 4:10 LSD _Poly Sway bar bushings _Reinforced sway bar mounts _New sway bar links _Rebuild the rear calipers _New Brake lines _Clean the shit out of everything and sandblast and paint the Parts that need it. Bough this LSD From Snap! (THANKS!) It will need some paint but I am excited to get it in and do some burnouts. I also sold my Nardi wheel, and bought another one immediately so it would match the wood-grain of my e39 knob. I also bought a gold Nardi horn and a new adapter off of another member on here (sorry I forgot your screen name but THANKS!) So my wheel will be a little closer to my dash again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 I am going to try and add more pictures as I go along. I tend to be pretty bad a documenting what I do as I am doing it. On another note, Does anyone know where the studs for the rear subframe come out on the verts? The coupes and sedans are in the back seat, but mine seem to be inside the quarter panel? WTF? referring to this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 They're behind the side panels on verts=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 They're behind the side panels on verts=)RAD! Thanks earl, thats what I thought, I was just too lazy to remove the panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 What diff did you take out of the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 What diff did you take out of the car?An open 3:73. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 So I got the pins out, and took out all of the interior. I should have snapped a pic, but I will tonight. I cannot for the life of me remove the subframe. Pulling, twisting, and tugging like a vintage porno, the damn thing is stuck. I used a plethora of various tools too; Air chisel, hammer, bigger hammer, prybars of all shapes and sizes. I finally found a thread on R3V of a guy using a custom bent 1/2" x 3' rod, sledge hammer, and a lagbolt that got his out. I will be attempting this tonight. that thread is here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=136816 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick.e46.330i. Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 When I took mine out I didn't take out those studs. I jumped on the trailing arms to break it loose. On mine the aluminum part for the stock mount corroded and was stuck to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 A little heat wouldn't hurt either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I also had your same scenario with mine. i tapped the aluminum sleeve of the subframe mount, installed a screw, and did the hammer of death procedure as you are about to undertake. I had my best success when gradually getting each side down a little at a time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 All this talk about everything getting stuck and breaking makes me reallllllly not looking forward to dropping my rear subframe.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I put a 5 foot two by four in between the body and subframe. I then proceeded to go side to side and work it down by jumping on it=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 What happened to said diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I pulled on mine.... And it came out. Literally required almost no effort to break free once everything was unbolted.Good luck - get it loose!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Mine snapped off the top of the aluminum bushing and left it in the car. Had to drill and hammer it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Well I got it out. Used a 3 foot rod and a 5/8ths lag bolt. I had to bend the rod to get it in there, but after a few quick smacks, the casting snapped right where I drilled the holes. And after I got it out, I still had the other half of the casting stuck in the car. So I just repeated the process. Thread in lag bolt, insert rod from the top, HAMMER TIME. Out it came. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 The electric impact I use is so helpful. The torque of the electric motor really helped drive that lag bolt into the aluminum. Next I just need to toss all the hardware in the tumbler, replace all the bushings, and clean everything up and paint it! :sigh: old diff is for sale BTW.. http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/3579-e30-373-open-differential-for-sale/ here you can see how dried out the swing arm bushings are This sucks too, the axle boots are cracked and about to tear from just looking at them. Anyone have suggestions on new axles? (Brand, where to buy, HP amount etc?) I figure I will need better ones once I swap the car anyways. DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Just replace the boots and repack the cv joints with grease. There is no need to replace the whole thing. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Just replace the boots and repack the cv joints with grease. There is no need to replace the whole thing. Sent from my potato phone I might go that route for now to save some cash. I wont be seeing big HP numbers till next year anyways. I have seen a few guys that run stock M coupe Axles and they are pushing 600+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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