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First venture into the world of BMW's, lots of E30 questions:


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Just picked up a 1989 325IS, almost completely stock. Car is in excellent shape, with the exception of some minor body damage from a low-speed accident by the PO. Passenger front fender, door, and lower bumper valence were rippled. So let's start the body related questions:

-Are all E30 doors created equal? Any changes in doors between early/late model cars?

-I'm assuming the lower valence under the bumper is specific to late model (painted bumper) E30's? Any different valences within the late model cars?

-Any differences in fenders over the model range I should know about?

First plan once it's back from paint is general maintenance (Tbelt, thermostat, oil/coolant change, fuel filter and brake bleed?). Any other "big hitters" to check off the list on this car?

Any info and help would be appreciated, I come from a VW background so I have a lot of learning ahead of me. Thanks!

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Welcome! I couldn't find a specific step by step guide for "baselining" a E30 but the links below should give you and idea of all the things to replace.

 

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=81144 E28 specific baseline procedure, all steps can be adapted to e30 chassis.

 

http://e30world.com/Maintenance/BMW-E30-common-problems Listing of common E30 problems, more or less the same as the list above.

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Just picked up a 1989 325IS, almost completely stock. Car is in excellent shape, with the exception of some minor body damage from a low-speed accident by the PO. Passenger front fender, door, and lower bumper valence were rippled. So let's start the body related questions:

-Are all E30 doors created equal? Any changes in doors between early/late model cars?

Not that I am aware of, just the difference in 2dr/4dr cars of course.

-I'm assuming the lower valence under the bumper is specific to late model (painted bumper) E30's? Any different valences within the late model cars?

There are the M-Tech valances and bumpers but those are rare. So the only real change on late model valances are the pieces you snap into it such as fog light blanks, oil cooler grille, is lip  etc. it is all interchangable though.

 

-Any differences in fenders over the model range I should know about?

 

1984 318i is an oddball in many ways. I wouldnt be surprised if they were different on the 84 318, the rest should all match

First plan once it's back from paint is general maintenance (Tbelt, thermostat, oil/coolant change, fuel filter and brake bleed?). Any other "big hitters" to check off the list on this car?

 

Valve adjustment, engine and trans mounts, o2 sensor, drivetrain stuff such as the flex disk and center support bearing if they are worn

trans and diff fluid, search thoroughly for vac. leaks.

Any info and help would be appreciated, I come from a VW background so I have a lot of learning ahead of me. Thanks!

I did too. I will never go back  O__O  Welcome to the wonderful world of RWD. 

If this is your first RWD experience then I strongly suggest finding a safe place to learn some basic car control in the rain/snow especially since you have a clutch-type LSD. Specifically, learn how the car behaves when you are cornering steady-state then lift the throttle, how little steering and throttle input are actually required to get the car sideways and out of shape, and train yourself to not lift completely off the throttle and make the oversteer worse. Once you get the hang of how much to countersteer and ease off the throttle you can start powering out of slides in full control and have a lot of fun while also being a safer driver in poor weather. If you are not new to RWD and are the drift king then disregard this. I just remember getting my car out of shape on my first drive with it and I was not well prepared to properly control it. 

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For maintenance, check the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the valve cover. It runs underneath the intake. Make sure you have the correct spark plugs, no double platinums, etc. When you do the timing belt, make sure you get the right tensioner. I use blue loctite and torque to spec to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. When bleeding your brakes, be sure not to mix dot 3 and dot 4. When you do the coolant change, do the coolant temp sensor too for what it costs.

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What can you guys tell me about the stock IS trunk spoilers? The original one on mine is cracked and nasty, looking to replace it. The original one feels like it's made from a soft rubber, is it coated/painted/plain rubber? Do you take it to a body shop to have them paint it (they'll use like 4 gallons if flex?)?

I had assumed it was comparable to a piece of trim, when it's faded and cracked you just replace it.

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Same color, just fixing some minor body issues. PO had a minor low speed incident with a pole that I want sorted out. Paint appears to be great on this car, but I plan on a good clay bar/buff this weekend to see what I'm working with.

I will only take my paint stuff to Kurt at Inline Autobody here in Oshkosh. He did some work on my white car quite a few years back, and does a killer job. I won't take my paint stuff anywhere else.

Picking up battery and buffing compounds tonight, I think Saturday afternoon I'll be buffing everything out and getting it up in stands to start timing belt/waterpump/etc...

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I've always used the Meguiars compounds and had no issues. I've gotta find someplace locally to pick up a mid-range cut, I think automotive supply carries it.

Picked up a battery and checked a bunch of electrical stuff last night. Everything seems to work great so far, but I'll reserve my happiness until it's driving.

Getting a battery was kind of a PITA though, made a bunch of calls:

-Advance: "Doesn't carry one for that car"

-Batteries Plus: $120

-NAPA: $120

-Oriellys: $120

-Fleet Farm Appleton: "Doesn't carry one for that car"

-Fleey Farm Oshkosh: $83

Mans Mall it was!!!!

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