Jump to content
WI BIMMERS - Wisconsin's BMW Community

Alpine e30 progress/build thread


m42b32

Recommended Posts

13 hours ago, Daggerty said:

I have probably 5-10 feet of line laying around so you can get this done for the picnic 

Unfortunately, the brake lines aren't in the way of making it to the picnic, it's the usual time/money/wanting to keep my sanity haha. Thanks though!

 

As far as the proportioning, I did some more research: I wasn't aware that late model e30's use a dual diameter brake master cylinder, so while the front brake bore is around 22mm, the rear is smaller, so when paired with the e30 m3 brakes it likely upset the bias a bit. The stock e30 m3 master is a single diameter 23.8mm and the 25.4mm master that I am using is a common upgrade for a firmer pedal on those cars. Because I have different shocks/springs/tires/brakes/bushings/weight distribution/etc compared to stock, it makes sense to just do the adjustable proportioning while I'm doing this work anyway. That way I can dial in the braking for the best performance, plus it's another adjustment to screw around with at an autocross.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ABS delete and master swap complete! 

 

I decided that an adjustable bias valve would be a good idea so I picked up a Wilwood part that has M10x1.0 bubble flare fittings. After a bunch of trial and error, I decided to mount it down where the original proportioning valve sat. Originally, I wanted to mount it up by the fuse box for easy access, but I didn't want to have lines running above the master so that got canned. I re-positioned the brake line running to the rear and made a bracket that connects to the stock proportioning valve mount and adapts it to the Wilwood part:

28210121378_303eeab56f_b.jpg

 

The nicopp lines are so much nicer to work with than the steel lines, though they did seem to be a little harder to get a nice flare compared to the steel. Using more oil on the bubble flare tool seemed to help with this, hopefully they all seal well. The lines aren't perfect, but don't look too bad! I have tool access to all the fittings and can install or remove any part without having to take everything else apart. 

41182730095_96bc6f83ae_b.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, snap said:

Is that the check valve connected straight to the booster?

 

im using an E21 check valve. I had used one on the M20 as well to get rid if the expensive and convoluted check valve situation the M20 comes stock with

That's probably what it is haha. It was on the booster when I got it, and I'm using it to plug the hole for now to keep dirt out.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking of wheels...

 

I spent the long weekend out of town, so I didn't make any progress on the car. However, I did stop at a pick-n-pull that was on the way. The only BMW in the entire yard was an e38 that had arrived very recently, and in the back seat I found a set of 16x8 et23 style 4 wheels! These are the same size and offset as the 16" style 5's, but they have radial spokes and more importantly, they're one of the few OEM forged wheels. These need a refinish, but they're straight with minimal curbing which is all I really need. They'll be great as auto-x/etc wheels!

41719300814_e7f405f381_b.jpg

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got some more things done over the last few days. Got started on the transmission, it was caked in grime so after scrubbing for over an hour I decided that nobody will see it and it's good enough for now.

28654387838_cf4a473cb1_b.jpg

 

With the trans 'cleaned', I went through and did the complete shift pin repair. I didn't realize that you needed a small slide hammer to get the covers off until it was too late to go rent one, so I made a mini one out of some scrap metal I had laying around. It just so happened that I had a piece of pipe that fit perfectly over a 1/2" steel rod, so between that and some random hardware, I ended up with this:

41805094624_ac6e88f4bf_b.jpg

 

As you can see, it worked perfectly as there is a freshly removed cap and spring on the end of it in that picture. With the old parts out of the way, I used the proper drifts to tap in the new bushings/pins/springs/caps. The snap ring for the reverse detent was an absolute pain, but it finally went together. All that's left to do on the trans is the shift shaft seal, install it, and then change the fluid once it's in the car!

28654387398_ce75ac7e16_c.jpg

28654386338_00c8896379_b.jpg

41805094524_5a042c983d_b.jpg

 

When I bought the engine mount arms I was planning to use, I didn't realize I needed the later style driver's side arm with the slotted hole in the bottom left corner to fit the pattern on my block. Fortunately, this was easily resolved with a bit of drilling and filing. 

42527925851_871c97f4b4_b.jpg

 

With the driver's engine mount arm installed, I was now able to whip up a bracket to secure the lower mounting point of the coolant return pipe:

40737404810_39d04f6c22_b.jpg

Don't worry, I will be replacing those rusty bolts holding on the engine mount arm, I didn't have anything better to use at the time. 

 

While I had the grinder and welder out, I went ahead and chopped out the ABS pump mounting brackets, used a flap disk to smooth out the remaining welds, and sprayed a coat of primer over the newly exposed metal:

40737404620_95a1cf6841_b.jpg

With the grinder I'm more of a butcher than a surgeon (and the limited access didn't help either), so before I do any bay painting sometime in the future, this area will have to get a little bit of body work, but it's smooth enough that it will be good for now. 

 

I also made a bracket to mount the Hella sharptone horns behind the grilles. For whatever reason, the core support I installed on my car has a threaded stud right behind the center of the grille that wasn't there on the original, so I made a bracket that mounts to that feature out of some hefty flat stock to hang the horns off to each side. With the black shrouds you basically can't see them behind the grille which is perfect. 

40737404680_fd919225a5_b.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

horns arent something you normally think of as an upgrade unless you are a subaru guy that wants to have pink horns to match the pink sti emblem, but in my dadcar I often wonder if people even hear me when im trying to roadrage them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, snap said:

horns arent something you normally think of as an upgrade unless you are a subaru guy that wants to have pink horns to match the pink sti emblem, but in my dadcar I often wonder if people even hear me when im trying to roadrage them

I never thought of it before either, and initially it seems silly, but the number of people who aren't paying attention or just don't care while they drive in the downtown Milwaukee area is ridiculous... I figure it'll at least slightly improve my chances of not having to find more clean body panels!

 

1 hour ago, straight6pwr said:

whered you buy the trans pin rebuild stuff?

It's all available from BMW! I got it everything from Tischer for around $70. Here is a great DIY that also has all the necessary part numbers: https://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/bmw_diy/shift_pins/shift_pins.html

If anyone needs/wants to do the same thing to their ZF 5-speed, you are welcome to borrow the drifts for setting the bushings/caps, just shoot me a PM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, m42b32 said:

It's all available from BMW! I got it everything from Tischer for around $70. Here is a great DIY that also has all the necessary part numbers: https://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/bmw_diy/shift_pins/shift_pins.html

If anyone needs/wants to do the same thing to their ZF 5-speed, you are welcome to borrow the drifts for setting the bushings/caps, just shoot me a PM.

thanks for the info! i'll def. take you up on that if I drop my trans for any reason.

related to that note, when you stuff your engine/trans in, I'd love to help for the knowledge. the other instances i've installed or removed a 24v from an e30, the whole front of the car was missing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, wasnt m3 said:

I have a ZF laying around and the shift pin kit. Want to throw them in there for me?

Somewhere in the middle of getting that reverse pin snap ring installed I told myself "I'm never f%$#ing doing this again".... that being said it really wasn't horrible and I'm easily persuaded by beer haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More things done! 

Installed the clutch slave and related brackets so I could make the hard line that connects the slave to the flex hose

42648799722_dcd25437ba_b.jpg

 

Also installed a stainless steel pivot pin, retainer spring, and a new clutch fork. Throw-out bearing and pilot bearing will be here this week, along with an FX stage 2 clutch kit with the chromoly lightweight flywheel from Gripforce (Ebay 20% off sale came in clutch...heh). Going to pull all this apart to clean/grease everything, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I also replaced the leaking shift shaft input seal, this job was sooo much easier with the trans outside the car.

42648799422_e97c244aa5_b.jpg

 

The M54 doesn't have a great place to mount the e30 coolant temp sensor for the cluster, so I shaved off one of the coolant temp sensor locations from the lower radiator hose and will be tapping it to accept the e30 sensor (along with some JB weld for good measure). Because it is plastic, I had to add a grounding wire to the housing of the coolant temp sensor by drilling a hole through one of the edges and soldering a wire into the hole. The other end of the wire is a ring lug that will be grounded to one of the studs holding the vanos assembly to the head. I need to re-solder the connection as it didn't bond to the brass, but it should work well once that's re-done. 

42698297571_b322f07cdf_b.jpg

42698302301_90ebc86e9a_b.jpg

 

I got the fuel system as far as I can till the engine is installed. I'm using an S54 fuel pressure regulator housing with the 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator from a 530i. I used an M12x1.5 to 5/16" barb to adapt the FPR housing to the pair of fuel lines at the frame rail in the e30 engine bay:

42698299731_dc4c519743_b.jpg

42648794892_dea62b1d26_b.jpg

 

The charcoal canister from my car is in great shape so I am going to attempt to retain it to avoid having the car smell like gas and be ever so slightly environmentally friendly. I used the fuel rail hose clip from the M42 to secure the FPR housing in place and orient the outlet towards the engine. 

42648795512_87bc32a3b5_b.jpg

 

Access to the brake bias valve isn't great, but I routed everything in a way that I should still be able to get my hand down there and turn the knob with the engine installed. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.