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Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)


DrLeadFoot

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This type of stuff really tests me.  I have some credit at Kummrow from them putting the head and cams in and I might have Pat do the tapping for me.  I have a call into him just waiting for a response.

 

I also got the heater hoses off of the firewall and now I just need to pop them on the right way.  Tomorrow I will head out to Pegasus to get a thicker vacuum hose setup for the BOV.

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sy7y3e2e.jpg

 

Pat Kummrow let me borrow his broken tap extractor kit!  It got the tap out but it broke up.  Once it was cleaned out I noticed that the hole goes straight into the timing cover and I think some metal pieces fell in there.  Oh GOD!  Next I need to pull the valve cover and see if I can vacuum any bigger pieces out then dump a least 10 quarts of oil down the timing chain with the drain open to rinse any other debris out.  Run it for 10-20 minutes then change the oil/filter again.

 

I might have to helicoil (spelling?) the hole.

 

I think this is where the oil leak was coming from so this will all be worth it in the end.

 

Oh GOD!!

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Had to helicoil a clutch cover bolt on a ktm one time. It turned out iffy-ish

 

I've never done one.  I have a inner valve cover bolt that I will have to do as well. 

 

I just need to have a little pressure on tightening it.  I think the oil was leaking through the threads so I will liquid Teflon seal the bolt up on install. 

 

This better work.

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I would use a thread insert rather than a helicoil.  It should be easier to get it to seal and should stay put better.  Use a tapered tap and don't go all of the way through so that the insert gets snug (think tapered pipe thread) and clean out good with brake cleaner so the loctite sticks good, if the insert is too long then cut/grind the end off once its in there securely.

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Glad you managed to get that out! Probably going to be some butt clenching on that first start up anyways lol

It's going to be so tight butthole when I turn that key.

I have 2 gallons of oil that I'm going to dump through the motor before startup.

I got a long bolt into the hole that was the issue and it tightened up to where I'm comfortable. Again, thank goodness!!!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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Vanos cover has been rtv seal and is now all bolted up. The stripped hole torqued down very nicely. Fhew!!!

Dumped a lot of oil all over the timing chains then looked underneath to see this!!

qa8u8ane.jpg

Which lead to this. How did BP clean all that up again?

5yvuda9e.jpg

I picked up a bigger BOV vacuum line then broke the connector making the line. Stay Hot, doc!!

Also took out my rear trunk lock to try to clean it up and get it to turn again. I got this far.

4avarada.jpg

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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List of to do's to keep me on the up and up:

 

- Tighten up heater core coolant hoses on firewall. DONE

 

- Teflon seal MAP (?) sensor under intake manifold.  DONE

 

- BOV vacuum hose.

    - Make line and install.

 

- Pop valve cover on and coils.  DONE

 

- Install radiator and fill with BMW's version of liquid gold of the blue tint, distilled water and water wetter.

 

- Change oil with cheap stuff and drive for 10 minutes.

 

- Change oil and filter with good stuff.

 

- Track down why the AFR gauge stopped working, again...

 

- Up the boost and head to the dyno.

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by the wideband "not working" is the gauge receiving power but not getting a signal from the sensor?

If so, check the sensor and gauge grounds. I have an Innovate MTX-L, and love it, but it wouldnt let me use the ground on the factory O2 connector. It wouldnt get enough voltage from the car and threw an error code (very picky about grounds)

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What AFR gauge are you using?  I have been looking at the Innovate one but am open to suggestions.

PLX Devices.  I like it, when I get it to work.  It hasn't worked because of my own doing to first time and I think I know why it went south again.

 

Are you going back to LMT to dyno it? I'd like to see you make a few pulls!

I think so.  It would probably be good to keep it consistent to compare numbers.  And it didn't burst into flames there so that's that.  I'll let you all know when I schedule a date with LMT so you can see the Doc be a nervous wreck.   

 

by the wideband "not working" is the gauge receiving power but not getting a signal from the sensor?

If so, check the sensor and gauge grounds. I have an Innovate MTX-L, and love it, but it wouldnt let me use the ground on the factory O2 connector. It wouldnt get enough voltage from the car and threw an error code (very picky about grounds)

No power to the gauge.  I pulled out the + wire in the power connector they included in the kit while adjusting the wires so I could crimp the in-line fuse that I was installing.  Radio shack doesn't have that power plug thing so I soldered it back together to work but it wasn't the doc's best showing.  After I get it running I'll track it down.

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