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I managed to get mine out yesterday. I didn't have to remove the window track because there wasn't one, so I've got that going for me.

The handle assembly was broken in multiple places. Started half-assing it back together. Hopefully it will last long enough for me to find a replacement. Current door opening procedure is:

1) Forget that it's broken

2) Try to open door

3) Get pissed. Give door handle the bird as I walk around car.

4) Open passenger door and reach across the car to grab the inside handle.

5) Walk back around car, grab handle, and realize door is only half open.

6) Repeat steps 3 and 4.

7) Walk back around car and get in.

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#12 was not inside of your door blocking the way?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CG53-USA-06-1995-E36-BMW-318ti&diagId=51_2055

If not I'm thoroughly surprised your window doesn't rattle around in your door when down and that it goes up and down straight. I've had the rubber "guide" fall out of mine before and it caused my clips to snap and the window to fall

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19 hours ago, HipMF said:

I managed to get mine out yesterday. I didn't have to remove the window track because there wasn't one, so I've got that going for me.

The handle assembly was broken in multiple places. Started half-assing it back together. Hopefully it will last long enough for me to find a replacement. Current door opening procedure is:

1) Forget that it's broken

2) Try to open door

3) Get pissed. Give door handle the bird as I walk around car.

4) Open passenger door and reach across the car to grab the inside handle.

5) Walk back around car, grab handle, and realize door is only half open.

6) Repeat steps 3 and 4.

7) Walk back around car and get in.

Don't worry, you get used to it.  Mine was broken for over 6 months.  I almost forgot to use the working handle after it was fixed.

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6 hours ago, Earl said:

#12 was not inside of your door blocking the way?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CG53-USA-06-1995-E36-BMW-318ti&diagId=51_2055

If not I'm thoroughly surprised your window doesn't rattle around in your door when down and that it goes up and down straight. I've had the rubber "guide" fall out of mine before and it caused my clips to snap and the window to fall

Correct, it's missing. The window does rattle when down, I just never realized what the issue was. Currently don't even have the ambition to work on my project car, so working on the daily is a real chore. I will get it all fixed up properly at some point though...

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So I've been shopping for a new car. I plan on buying it in the spring/summer.

I've really been looking for a 335i with an n54 or im starting to look at the possibility of an E46 m3

What would you guys rather own? I think a 335i is more affordable and in my price range  unless I get a deal like @i_love_cars got on his E46 m3. 

If I got the m3 I'd feel obligated to buy a winter beater. E46 wagon or something. 

Let me know some opinions.

 

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I'd buy an e46 M3 every time but if you're looking to daily a car the 335i is more reasonable.  The 335i is a maintenance pig and it will make you pay to drive it regularly.  You may want a second car just to drive WHEN the 335i starts misfiring or becomes undrivable in some other way and if thats the case you might as well own an e46 m3.  You can put an e46 m3 and a 335i in the same price range but there's gonna be a huge difference between a $12k 335i and a $12k m3.  I say that not knowing what your price range is but realistically unless you're looking at m3's north of $18k the condition won't be the same as a 335i sub $15k.  Buy a 335i because that's what you want to do.  Mod it, break it, regret it and repeat.

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18 hours ago, patsbimmer1 said:

I'd buy an e46 M3 every time but if you're looking to daily a car the 335i is more reasonable.  The 335i is a maintenance pig and it will make you pay to drive it regularly.  You may want a second car just to drive WHEN the 335i starts misfiring or becomes undrivable in some other way and if thats the case you might as well own an e46 m3.  You can put an e46 m3 and a 335i in the same price range but there's gonna be a huge difference between a $12k 335i and a $12k m3.  I say that not knowing what your price range is but realistically unless you're looking at m3's north of $18k the condition won't be the same as a 335i sub $15k.  Buy a 335i because that's what you want to do.  Mod it, break it, regret it and repeat.

Good points. I feel like I can score a nicer 335i for cheaper then an e46 m3. I wouldn't buy a BMW if I had to pay a shop for maintenance LOL.

For the 335i im only looking for 3 main features. 1 E92 2 Comfort Access and 3 6 speed.

So if anyone sees anything Send it my way.

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1 hour ago, GB-335xiCoupe said:

I've had very few problems with my two 2011 Model Year e92 335xi's. My black one just turned 200,000 miles. Runs like the day I bought it with 53k miles on it. As long as they are driven regularly and you follow normal maintenance, and DIY, they are no more expensive than any other car.

Are they tuned? I would plan on doing FBO with an MHD tune. Possibly a WOTbox when I feel confident enough I want to replace my turbos.

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On 3/5/2019 at 10:31 AM, patsbimmer1 said:

That would be correct.

They both have N55 Engines, and rolled off the assembly line within 3 months of each other. The black one I had tuned with a Vishnu Proceed V3 for about two years. I haven't modded much, just upgraded charge pipe and had the transmission ecu flashed with the Alpina B3 program. The transmission in my blue one is stock, and the difference is obvious.

As far as maintenance for the black one (other than oil changes), here's the short version:

e92/N55/ZPP/ZCW
Bought 08/09/2013@53,340mi Current 2/2019 @200,100mi (5yrs, 6months and 146,800miles)
Fail(s):
tstat hous/water pump 89k,
Walnut blast at 101k,
Transmission/T-case Fluid change and Alpina B3 flash at 103k,
Chargepipe at 106k,
Coolant tank crack at 114k, and related to the coolant fix, had to replace the FRM3 at  114k
VANOS recall performed by dealership $0 at Approx 160k,
OFHG replaced at 195k (minor leakage, simple fix)

 

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4 hours ago, GB-335xiCoupe said:

They both have N55 Engines, and rolled off the assembly line within 3 months of each other. The black one I had tuned with a Vishnu Proceed V3 for about two years. I haven't modded much, just upgraded charge pipe and had the transmission ecu flashed with the Alpina B3 program. The transmission in my blue one is stock, and the difference is obvious.

As far as maintenance for the black one (other than oil changes), here's the short version:

e92/N55/ZPP/ZCW
Bought 08/09/2013@53,340mi Current 2/2019 @200,100mi (5yrs, 6months and 146,800miles)
Fail(s):
tstat hous/water pump 89k,
Walnut blast at 101k,
Transmission/T-case Fluid change and Alpina B3 flash at 103k,
Chargepipe at 106k,
Coolant tank crack at 114k, and related to the coolant fix, had to replace the FRM3 at  114k
VANOS recall performed by dealership $0 at Approx 160k,
OFHG replaced at 195k (minor leakage, simple fix)

 

Yeah I wouldn't just buy it right away and drive it. I would do a cooling system refresh. Change all the fluids. Get a new chargepipe and get index 12 injectors. To make as reliable as possible.

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Honestly I’m not surprised, I don’t think I’ve seen them advertised anywhere online. Their product selection wasn’t as good as competitors and prices weren’t either. The website was behind for so long too as far as a modern online shopping experience which is mainly why I stopped shopping with them years ago. I destroyed 2 csb’s in the 528e before realizing the bearing wasn’t even off-set lol.

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2 hours ago, straight6pwr said:

BavAuto was the first mail catalog that i remember pouring through, drooling at all the 90s ACS/Hargte/Hamann goodies.  Sad to see, but +1 on their prices never being competitive.

I somewhat disagree.  I've purchased things from Bav after price shopping.  This wasn't super frequent, but it did happen.  Also I remember getting their catalogs because they were really the only distro in town that had a cool print publication.

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