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Found 13 results

  1. So Ive tried to write a build thread before and im not the greatest at depicting a good story so try and hang in there with me. For those of you who aren’t familiar I have an E30 vert that I more recently swapped a 1JZ into. Now that that car is nearing completion, I realized that I am too worried about actually doing much with the car other than driving it to a fro rather than tracking it (I mean it is a convertible anyways). So this is where I made the terribly unwise decision to buy my new “deathtrap.” Now I got this car ONLY because it seemed like a good idea at the time and the price was more than fair. But it has such a massive list of good and bad I was 90% ready to walk away until I drove it around the block. It’s a 199X BMW E36 318is with a ford mustang 5.OHHHH with a T5 trans. Pretty common swap and there are write ups all over the net for this conversion. I figured with fullbody coilovers, M3 rear end, aluminum drive shaft, sticky tires, on paper this was recipe for a fun machine. Upon arrival the car obviously looks just as bad as I thought. Rusty quarters, flat black front end, various dents and scratches, it was worn, which I was somewhat hoping for. I didn’t want another clean car that I have to worry about leaving in a parking lot because some soccer mom was too busy dealing with her offspring to realize her cart just rolled 50’ into the side of my car. We opened the hood and boy what a mess. Looped coolant lines, wires exposed, the coolant overflow was a plastic water bottle, missing blower motor and fuse box covers, a terribly painted intake manifold, the intake was just dangling inches from the exhaust manifold, and man oh man, there was a lot of zip ties. (at this point, any normal person including myself would and should walk away) But I didn’t. So getting in, I found 60% of the interior missing, and what was left, was utterly destroyed. The shifter location was under the dash, where the OBC use to be, the headliner was gone but all of the maps lights and buttons were plugged in and dangling, , the door panels were gone, the window switches didn’t work, the drivers side door was held shut with a bungee cord, none of the gauge cluster worked except for the fuel gauge but luckily there was an aftermarket tach, H2O temp, and oil pressure gauges where the HVAC controls use to be. (Here is where I made the mistake, by not walking away) I turned the key, and nothing happened. Theres two random switches floating around in the center console where the OBC use to be. That’s how you start it. Ones the starter, the other is…….. a mystery according to the previous owner, but it needs to be on as well. Okay started it up and it sounds just like you would expect, a crowd munching mustang V8. Driving it around the block, made me complete forget about the 983468397 things I just listed wrong with the car. It was quick, loud, and pretty fun to drive. The suspension was responsive, and the tires gave it great grip and the shifter felt great besides its bad placement. Looking through the shattered glass windshield and gripping the wheel till my knuckles were white to prevent the poor alignment from pulling me into the ditch, I started to picture a futuristic madmax style E36 competing at track events, creating massive burnouts, and carelessly tapping walls, all with a giant grin on my face. So I did what any Day dreaming idiotic man would do. I bought it. Here are some pictures of the car followed by some inspiration from KHYZYL SALEEM (If you havent head of this guy I suggest you google his name) of what I plan to make the car look like.
  2. So fellas I bought my first car. It's a 1999 323is. I bought it from the ORGINAL OWNER! Came with window sticker and a bunch of service manuals. Whole suspension was replaced. Needs nothing but a seat belt buckle because an airbag light is on. Has 180k I plan on replacing headlights, clear corners and such. Possibly m3 front bumper and definitely wheels. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  3. I have some parts and upgrades left over from my M3 that I'd like to sell. Everything is located just north of Milwaukee, send me a PM if you're interested in anything! Open to offers/package deals/etc, I'd like to make some space and free up funds for the E30. Posting here first and then it'll go to facebook/craigslist/etc. in a week or so. - E36 Racing Dynamics front strut brace. Could use a polish, fits perfectly. $125 - E36 x-brace. Some minor surface rust but nothing structural, comes with 4 stainless bolts/washers for attachment to the front sub-frame. Had been repainted a gray color a few years ago. $100 - E36 hexomat rubber floor mats. These fit the contours of the floor perfectly (and lay flat too) and cover a lot more than the standard floor mats. Don't move shift around at all either, I really liked these. Hex pattern on the front, dimples on the back. $75 for the set - E36 differential mounting bolt. This is the OEM revised bolt that is class 10.9 instead of the original 8.8 that is prone to breaking. $5 - E36 stock coupe tail light housings, good condition. No back covers. $40 - Those fogs are crap, you don't want them. - E36 ASC throttle body. $Free.99 with purchase of something else. - S52 Uro aluminum thermostat housing. Used so needs a gasket, otherwise fine. $Free.99 with purchase of something else - E36 modular center console base and ashtray in good condition. $5 - E36 coupe trunk hinges. Good condition. $5 I have a bunch of new S52 parts to sort through including new timing chain guides, timing cover gaskets, oil pump sprocket, and a few others. I should have all that posted here soon. Sold items: - E36 complete OEM alarm/keyless entry system retrofit. Install is fairly easy and I believe all E36's are pre-wired for it. This is the system for early model cars, but works perfectly on all years. Includes module with antenna, necessary wire harness, glass break sensor/LED for center console, impact sensor (I think, looks like a relay), siren (with mounting bracket), and one 3-button remote. The remote has a new battery as of last year, though the part where it can be hung from a key ring was broken before I received it. SOLD - E36 amber corner lights, good condition, no broken tabs. SOLD - E36 stock US headlights. Need a minor polish but not horrible. No issues otherwise. SOLD - E36 AKG weld in RTAB pocket reinforcement plates. New, never got around to it. SOLD
  4. Hey everyone, I just purchased a new bike, and bikes are expensive, so I've decided to sell my set of BBS RE 847 wheels. I would really like to keep them (aka hoard stuff), but I don't plan on running them any time soon so they are the first things to go. Specs: 18x8, et35, 5x120, 72.6mm center bore Some details: These are the die-forged version of BBS's CH, and are lightweight for their size (approximately 20lbs per wheel, with much of weight concentrated in the center to reduce the moment of inertia) and very strong. They look awesome too! You can find them on BBS's website here: http://www.bbs-usa.com/road_wheels/wheel_details.cfm?wheel=8. These are usually around $800 each new, and ECS just recently started selling them for $3k per set! They come with the original black/gold 3D center caps, and the original BBS metal valve stems. The tires are pretty much junk (225/40/18 Continental Extremecontact DW, down to the wear bars, you could easily fit wider rubber on an e36). They have very little rash, a few scratches here and there, and clean up pretty well. They do have some paint peeling on the sides of the spokes near the back edges, its not terrible but a refinish would be needed to make them perfect. These fit my e36 M3 perfectly with no rubbing or spacers needed, and would also fit great on an e46, e9x and many others. They have massive amounts of clearance for large brakes as well and would make for an excellent/lightweight set of track wheels. There are no bends or cracks. Pics on my car: Here is one of the wheels from when I picked them up, the condition really hasn't changed. I only ran them in the summer and am very careful about curbs/potholes/etc: I will get updated pictures of the wheels and any/all blemishes by the end of the weekend! I'll have them up on here first, and they will go to facebook/craigslist in about a week. Asking $1000 obo (active WIBIMMERS member price, will be posted higher elsewhere). I am in Milwaukee. Not really interested in any trades, unless you have stuff I need from my swap parts wanted thread, then we can figure something out.
  5. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece of the 3/4" tube (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating on the rod near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xhddb2buY0
  6. So yesterday I rebuilt my vanos with Beisan seals and their anti-rattle kit, that part of the job went great. The part that didn't go great was when I pulled the vanos unit and found the inside of my exhaust cam was full of metal shavings at the front of the engine. Under the valve cover was extremely clean, not a spec of sludge or shavings anywhere in the head. I changed the oil on Saturday and did not notice any metal flakes or anything out of the ordinary and the filter was very clean. It makes no weird noises aside from the vanos rattle (which is now gone) and it runs perfectly. Both timing chains look to be in perfect shape and the sprockets at the top of the engine looked basically new. Looking down into the lower timing cover I did not see anything abnormal either, everything was nice and clean. I cleaned out the cam with a magnet pickup (shavings are magnetic, all in all pulled less than a teaspoon of shavings) as best I could and re-assembled everything. The shavings don't look very fresh as they came out somewhat black instead of shiny silver so they may have been there for a while. What is confusing me is where they came from, I was under the impression that the cams were hollow tubes with nothing happening inside, so its not like something in there would be disintegrating. And if something else were self destructing like a bearing, I would see a lot more flakes in the filter and oil than just in the center of the cam. Does anyone have any clue where these came from? Is this a normal place for things to collect? Everything else looked to be in extremely good shape so I am baffled by this. I couldn't get a great picture of the shavings but I have one where you can see a couple pieces near the opening at the front of the cam, will post as soon as I get a chance.
  7. Hi all, Long story short, I need to get a set of front brake calipers for my 1999 M3. I have rebuild kits but the pistons and bores are too far gone to rebuild. Anyone know the best place to get rebuilt ones or have good experiences with any particular brand? Not trying to spends hundreds on new oem calipers, Turner has rebuilt ones for about $50 each but I figured I'd ask. Thanks!
  8. I'm Danielle, a former Subaru owner (go ahead throw garbage I deserve it) BUT happily and gleefully now the proud owner of a 95 e36 M3 Very excited to make this M my own and have already begun the process of window shopping for parts, making my list and checking it twice before deciding what direction to take this fellow. Needless to say, it's been a little over a week and I find myself enjoying the car more every time I drive it. Anyway just saying heyyyy.
  9. Hi guys, I am doing some research on what to do to my new to me ZF trans from a 98 M3 while it is out of the car. Figured I share what I found. Feel free to add links if you know some good ones. A great write up on these 2 service bulletins. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85093 A more basic youtube video. Selector shaft seal and gear shift rod joint write up. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=269673 Detent tools and links in this thread. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=307652 Another 5th & reverse detent write up. http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/bmw_diy/shift_pins/shift_pins.html Drift tools http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/collections/transmission-products More to come...
  10. So I had an idea last week to make center caps out of the WI BImmers logo so I contacted Chris (CYoung) to ask permission to use the logo and after some ideas being thrown back and forth he volunteered to get the vinyls cut for me by Dave (bassboy3313) and send them to me. Well I got the vinyls in the mail this week and spent this weekend making them. Well I though this would be as simple as taking apart my old caps and putting the vinyls on... not so much. First of all, the vinyls don't stick very well to the plastic even after scuffing them up so I had to put my thinking cap on. I ran to Advance Auto and found emblem glue. It worked great to stick the vinyl to the center cap and did so without disfiguring the sticker when it dried. This is after it dried on the center cap. I was concerned about weather proofing them so I shot them with 2 medium coats of clear and I still wasn't satisfied. I drank some beer and thought about it. Flying dog sampler pack and KCCO Black Lager to be exact. After drinking said beers I had an idea! I needed some kind of clear epoxy that would dry hard so to Hobby Lobby it was... The next morning of course. I found Jewelry epoxy and thought I would give it a try. And this was the result... Voila! The OEM look I wanted! After 3 hours they were solid but still a little tacky so I let them sit over night and they are solid! On the wheel. I also did a city light mod.
  11. This thing has been a bit neglected over the past few months with how busy I've been with the 242, but I gave a little bit of love today. Eibach springs, Koni SAs, and the CSLs are on. Did brakes a couple months ago and it's going to be getting a bunch of preventative maintenance shortly. This car has served as a pretty good benchmark for how well things are coming along with my Volvos. At first this car was way better and served as the ideal, but now it's lagging way behind the Volvo in pretty much every way. I guess the Volvo is pretty good now... Anyway, I'll shut up and maybe toss occasional pictures in here in the future, but I really have very few plans for this car as far as modification is concerned. Maybe I'll post a MODZ list.
  12. How to replace control arm bushings in an e36... Tools you need: 1. Vice 2. saws-all 3. chisel 4. hammer 5. Beer (optional)
  13. My name is Jake and I'm from the Fox Valley area. I'm sure you've all noticed me posting every once and a while for the last couple weeks. I am here to showcase my $1,000 1996 328is. She's a fully loaded 5-speed with 240,000 miles. I picked it up before the snow started to fall and beat the ever living crap out of it. Slidewayz by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr FOR RENT by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr School status. by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr Slangin. by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr Carousel. by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr Now that the snow has melted, I can finally give her some much needed attention. She came with some nasty purple Walmart tint and some fake carbon fiber vinyl on the roof which I don't have any pictures of. I couldn't stand it and ripped most of it off in the middle of winter (not my smartest idea). Here she is in her current state. Winter took a real toll on her. Beginning of the Bimmer by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr $1,000 by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr Both Ponies by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr Yep, that's my track slut lurking in the background. A boosted Miata. I'd love to line her up against some Bimmers on here Backed Up by Jake Spence Photography, on Flickr That's all for now. Expect some updates very soon, I have some parts waiting in the garage
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