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Value in parting out?


ChrisO

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Hey guys, I'm thinking that after 5 years of owning a E36 M3 thats full of body filler and has patched sheet metal all over I might want to move on. The shell is done for and will never not have rust somewhere. The rear jack points in the rockers had rusted through, and although I cut out the rust and welded 16 gauge plate in, I wouldn't trust my welds supporting the weight of the car. I feel like it wouldn't be safe to sell the car to someone else nor would I get much with the shell having 100 rust hole patches on the floor pan and rockers.

Those of you that have parted out E36 M3's, how fast did you move all the parts and what kinda money did you make? I'm assuming it wouldn't be too hard to hit selling like $2000 worth of parts in the first month or so including the motor and trans, but I'd like some input. The car is a '97 coupe, 5 speed with 220k miles. It has a few aftermarket goodies and a nice complete black interior with heated vaders, the s52 runs smooth and has 170+ compression in all cylinders. Really nothing is wrong with the car other then the fact that the body is rusting into the ground. Tons of stuff has been replaced.

I'm just trying to figure out if I want to keep driving it or if it's worth it to part it out (worth it to me is making like $3500-4000). I don't really have a feel for what the demand of parts is like. I don't wanna just sell the seats, diff and motor then have the rest sit for a year :( I've seen a few of you guys parting out E36 M3's in the last few months

Posting this makes me wanna cry after 5 years and 25k miles, but I can't stand the rust.

 

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You could fly Southwest...all jokes aside, you could make $3500-$4000 fairly easily but it all depends on the demand at the time you part it. Some days you could sell a nice Vader interior for $700+. Other times it will just sit for months and collect dust until you basically give it away. The engine would be considered "high mileage" to some (most of my cars usually have 200k when I buy them lol) and anyone interested would probably want it cheaper since they would plan on rebuilding it or doing a full build on it. Also, what is all done suspension wise? If it has nice coilovers and the bushings were done, those could be sold straight to someone so they can just swap it into their car without having to fiddle with pulling their old bushings. It would also be a good upgrade for a non M car. The rear diff seem to be going in to $350-$500 range lately depending on the ratio as well. It all depends on how long you want to sit on parts and how far you want to get into stripping the car down. 

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With the rust, I would almost think that parting it out would net you the most money, IF you don't mind doing all the work. There is a lot of effort in pulling everything, advertising, dealing with tire-kickers/lowballers, etc. I'd be wary of selling it as is if the rust repair wasn't professional and in a structural location, you'd need to make sure you advertise it accurately and when you do sell, have a solid bill of sale that clearly states "as is". 

That being said, it's a great looking car and if it were me, I would consider finding a clean coupe and re-shelling it! You can sell all the leftovers and come out even or ahead, and have a clean/rust free car. 

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3 hours ago, Boris3 said:

ChrisO, ever considered just looking for a clean shell? If wasnt m3's shell is in good shape maybe pick it up and swap everything over from your car? Solves both your problems.

I would love a slick top 4 door but I remember seeing the shell on craigslist in Chicago and I'm pretty sure it has body rust/ holes in the rockers and footwell areas. (If I'm wrong about that I'm sorry wasntm3)

1 hour ago, Earl said:

I mean I would buy the wheels=) Forgot to mention that before haha

17x9 +22 Rays Gram Lights with 15mm Ichiba 5x120-114.3 adapters, definitely a stretch making them fit even with the Hard Motorsports flares. If I part out I'll message you first before I post them up ;)

1 hour ago, m42b32 said:

With the rust, I would almost think that parting it out would net you the most money, IF you don't mind doing all the work. There is a lot of effort in pulling everything, advertising, dealing with tire-kickers/lowballers, etc. I'd be wary of selling it as is if the rust repair wasn't professional and in a structural location, you'd need to make sure you advertise it accurately and when you do sell, have a solid bill of sale that clearly states "as is". 

That being said, it's a great looking car and if it were me, I would consider finding a clean coupe and re-shelling it! You can sell all the leftovers and come out even or ahead, and have a clean/rust free car. 

I wouldn't consider the repaired rusted out sections like a driving danger, but If I put a jack to it I'm sure it would bend/not be safe. I'd love to find a coupe shell but the timing is just never right. I'm in a tough position being in college where I'd only have the space for 2 cars from July to August, and I also have never seen a rust free coupe shell in Wisconsin with a clean title. My dad sold his truck with a hitch, and I have no trailer also. I think you are right about the part out. I really feel like I'd be ripping people off trying to get $3500-4000 for the car (without the $1300 wheels), and also wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing some kid just put a jack stand on the jack pad I reconstructed with my welds. If I was completely honest saying that this car isn't structurally all safe I doubt anyone would want it for more then $2800

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4 minutes ago, ChrisO said:

I wouldn't consider the repaired rusted out sections like a driving danger, but If I put a jack to it I'm sure it would bend/not be safe. I'd love to find a coupe shell but the timing is just never right. I'm in a tough position being in college where I'd only have the space for 2 cars from July to August, and I also have never seen a rust free coupe shell in Wisconsin with a clean title. My dad sold his truck with a hitch, and I have no trailer also. I think you are right about the part out. I really feel like I'd be ripping people off trying to get $3500-4000 for the car (without the $1300 wheels), and also wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing some kid just put a jack stand on the jack pad I reconstructed with my welds. If I was completely honest saying that this car isn't structurally all safe I doubt anyone would want it for more then $2800

How long till you're out of school? Do you drive it year round?

If you really like the car and it drives well and isn't unsafe to drive, I'd just keep driving it for now especially if you've done a ton of maintenance and upkeep. It may not be a show winner with rust (mine sure isn't), but reliable transportation you know well compared to something new and questionable is worth something while you're in school. 

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It looks great in the photo.

Having parted cars out in the past with both time and space constraints, it is not a very fun endeavor. 

If you do, just remember to get video of the engine running and a compression test before you remove something that would prevent you from showing a potential buyer later. 

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22 hours ago, m42b32 said:

How long till you're out of school? Do you drive it year round?

If you really like the car and it drives well and isn't unsafe to drive, I'd just keep driving it for now especially if you've done a ton of maintenance and upkeep. It may not be a show winner with rust (mine sure isn't), but reliable transportation you know well compared to something new and questionable is worth something while you're in school. 

Ditto

In it's current state the M3 is worth more to you then to someone else or in parts. You know what you have. if it's reliable transportation while in school that still puts a smile on your face keep it and run it into the ground. We all need a good winter beater.  Once done with school, you can put the effort into a project car. Then you'll find that the trusty rusty M3 still has a purpose in keeping the wi winters from eating your project.

With the rust and high mileage the resale value of the M3 specific parts will be somewhat limited, and beyond that its a rusty E36 coupe chassis with 220k on it. 

The effort is better placed in your studies.  Parting cars still involves your time in managing ,disassembly and pack/ship of parts.  

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It boils down to if you have a) the space for a carcass to sit, and b ) time. You should easily be able to part out that car for 3k+. 

The downside is the e36 market is full of stancebois and drift missle pilots looking for everything for nothing. Prepare to deal with a lot of people who jag you around endlessly and then likely just stop communicating all together. 

If you have the space, and the patience, then part er out. If you dont have those two things, just dump it as a complete car. 

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