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E30 M52


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Rear main seal installed. BMW brand with no garter spring. Black rtv on the gasket, 7 ft lb on the 6mm hardware, 16 ft lb on the 8mm hardware.

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All of the appropriate brackets are installed (Roses are black violets are black, everything is black)Its a bit of a puzzle doing the OBD1 swap and not being familiar with 24V engines. I had some things bolted up on the wrong holes until i realized things werent lining up. There are 1 or 2 6mm holes on the elec. harness bracket that need to be opened up to 8mm

the front knock sensor needs to be angled slightly to clear the bracket and the rear portion of the bracket needs to be bent slightly to clear the original M52 lifting bracket

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I will wait until the trans is on to put the wiring harness in place since i dont want it to be flopping around in the way while trying to stab the trans.

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One summer of driving would be amazing

I’d 2nd that!

I don’t think I have ever replaced my ICV hose probably the same one it came with. I did how ever have an issue with the fitting in the back of the intake popping out, falling off, or whatever decided to keep happening. I did however solve this issue with an epoxy called plastic bond.

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One summer of driving would be amazing

I’d 2nd that!

I don’t think I have ever replaced my ICV hose probably the same one it came with. I did how ever have an issue with the fitting in the back of the intake popping out, falling off, or whatever decided to keep happening. I did however solve this issue with an epoxy called plastic bond.

I used this 9c68157b3a61ecd3168ae019cf8f58cb.jpg

However there is no provision for the small vac line that runs from the valve cover PCV to that clip (as we know in stock config there is a nipple there for it)

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The company FCPEuro used to focus on Uro heavy parts offerings and while their selection was low cost they paid a price in customer dissatisfaction and poor reputation.

A few years ago they turned things around by improving their customer service and especially by offering better quality parts (BMW and the reputable OEM) at good prices and with lifetime replacement on everything they sell even wear items (including rotors, pads, filters, etc). This is returns / replacement with no questions asked even if the parts are used for racing.

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I ground down the bosses on the oil pan and installed the flywheel but its still about 1.1 ballhairs from death.

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I can grind the bosses down more than they are now (stopped because I need a new bit) and will change out the two hex head screws for socket head screws since I foresee the socket not fitting nicely in the event i ever have to change the oil pan.

I read about many people being able to make it work without resorting to having the flywheel machined.

Bosses

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I now have 1/8” of clearance on the pan and 1/16” on the bolt head.

In the event that I ever need to i need to drop the oil pan: I slotted the hardware on the 2 rear bolts so I have an alternate method of removal if getting a socket on them just doesnt work out (due to an extension or socket touching the flywheel)

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Pressure plate/clutch and oil pan are installed.

Next is the trans

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