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E30 M52


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That is quite possible, although the reviews were good and I think they were cheap because the application was very obscure, Ford SVT 2.5 from 99-00 only so probably trying to get rid of them.  He claimed to do all kinds of stuff, backflush, ultrasonic, etc flow test within 2%.  I have no way of knowing if any of it was true though.

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My goal for today is to pull the block and trans from the car and say my final goodbyes to the m20

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I have decided to shift my focus away from the M52 refresh for a bit because next up is swapping out the M52 cams for some S52 cams, but as I look into the steps involved it looks really easy to screw it up so i need to do a lot of reading before i dive in.

Once the M20 is pulled i will do some scrubbing, repainting, install the E21 booster, and cut the mounting brackets off that i made for my intercooler.

Im still shooting for the end of august, but I will definitely have to replenish the car fund somehow to buy my last round of parts that I need and pay for some welding

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Today's goal achieved

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The clutch hard line flare nut rounded off so I had to break the line off. The new braided clutch line i put in looks like it is seeping some oil the stainless braiding so i'm tossing it.

There is some oil in the bottom of the trans bellhousing so it would appear that I need to revisit my trans input seal.

Sometimes the more you work towards the finish line, the farther away you get from it.

I just keep finding things that I need to add to my shopping list.

I quickly test fit my M20 flywheel onto the M52, i dont quite understand the big stink that people online say about machining the back of the flywheel so it doesnt rub on the block. From what I see right now there is plenty of space. I will look into it more later.

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On 7/15/2017 at 8:19 PM, Snap said:

I quickly test fit my M20 flywheel onto the M52, i dont quite understand the big stink that people online say about machining the back of the flywheel so it doesnt rub on the block. From what I see right now there is plenty of space. I will look into it more later.

Did you have the oil pan on for this? 

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The rear sump E39 pan was on, but not the front sump E34 pan. I have read about people having to grind down part of the oil pan for clearance, I have no qualms taking some cutting and grinding tools to an aluminum oil pan. it is much cheaper, and safer than having a flywheel machined down.

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A year ago when I popped my engine and parked it out at the inlaws' place for long term storage I had a little mouse problem (they live in the woods). Not only did they nibble on the o2 sensor wires, they took my entire bag of dill pickle sunflower seeds and ate it, leaving the shells inside and outside my car. I set lots of traps but after clearing them all a few times I decided that trying to fight a mouse problem at a house in the woods would be like Will Smith's character in I Am Legend trying to take on the entire population of those infected zombie things.

I called Chadley, he brought over the Chummins and towed me back to my house where its safe.

Well I thought I had cleared all the sunflower seeds but alas, here are more

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E30 booster removed. Here it is next to the reman. E21 booster I will be installing. It is only slightly smaller diameter but it does sit tighter against the firewall. We will see how that works.

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Check out the booster hardware access hole in the brake pedal!

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Neet.

The E30 throttle cable was replaced with an E34 M50 throttle cable

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I act like this is some sort of marvelous progress but in reality its not. Forgive me.

Next up: modify/shorten the E21 booster threaded rod, bolt it up and finish cleaning the engine bay.

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There are so many different ways to do this swap and a handful of conflicting information I have found. Everyone seems to complain about the E21 booster and the heavy brakes due to reduced mechanical advantage. Between a reman. booster (not a 36 year old used one), a new master cylinder, and some pads with a good cold bite, I think I should manage

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21 hours ago, Snap said:

There are so many different ways to do this swap and a handful of conflicting information I have found. Everyone seems to complain about the E21 booster and the heavy brakes due to reduced mechanical advantage. Between a reman. booster (not a 36 year old used one), a new master cylinder, and some pads with a good cold bite, I think I should manage

IMO I think brakes are such a hard thing to judge because everyone has their own opinion on what they are looking for and how they feel.

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I would also wager that a lot of people put far too aggressive pads on street cars. Even the Metalmasters on my car (purchased per Turner Motorsports' recommendation) arent very wonderful around town. They work fine, but compared to newer cars and ceramic pads, it leaves me wanting some more cold bite.

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Grimey oil filter housings require no fewer than 3 brushes, 2 rolls of paper towels, and 3 cans of brake cleaner/simple green to clean up. There are so many nooks and crannies in the casting.

I'm considering it good and moving on.

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I have formed a rough list of milestones to be up and running in September. I'm unsure of my ability to get it all done in time. It needs to be done properly and I wont install a temporary anything to be up and running. it needs to be complete.

7/22 - finish cleaning and painting engine, finish cleaning and painting engine bay, brake booster modified and installed

7/29 - cams installed/timed, new CSB installed on driveshaft, oil pump shaft replaced and safety wired, trans input seal replaced

8/5 -  Front and rear main seals replaced, engine and trans fully assembled as a unit with M50 oil pan installed

8/12- Subframe removed, CABs replaced with smaller Treehouse lollipops

8/19 - Engine, trans, and subframe installed and in the car

8/26 - Figure out exhaust routing, install fan, all electrical and plumbing connections made

9/2 - Finish exhaust, install bumper + valence

9/9 - bleed brakes, clutch, coolant, add oil, prime engine, start engine, test drive

9/16 - fudge week

9/23 - fudge week

 

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