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VANOS sprocket wrench arrived today.

-New chain tensioners and guides installed.

-Cams timed.

-VANOS installed

-Timing verified with 2 revolutions

-Water pump installed

-Thermostat installed

-CSB replaced on driveshaft

-updated hydraulic belt tensioner and new idlers installed

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I lost (or never ordered) the gasket for the rear main seal so that will be the next step, then i can install the oil pan, flywheel, clutch and trans.

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Not too many unknowns, but a lot of little things.

The shift linkage and shift carrier (maybe, need to see how this fits in the car) need to be cut and rotated 10-12 degrees. Im not sure if my E30 power steering lines will work with this mystery E36 PS pump im using.

I will need to make a bracket for the oil dipstick tube, weld in the skidplate, blast and coat the headers, trim the oil pan if the flywheel rubs on it, install a new master cylinder, install new control arms with my new lollipops (mostly for exhaust clearance), finishing the exhaust system, buying a silicone intake elbow, buying and installing an electric fan, rethreading my e30 gauge cluster temp sensor, finding the correct OBD1 ecu coolant temp sensor (part number shows up as NLA but that cant be right) and identifying all the harness connectors since they are all very similar and unlabelled.

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10 hours ago, Snap said:

 

Not too many unknowns, but a lot of little things.

 

The shift linkage and shift carrier (maybe, need to see how this fits in the car) need to be cut and rotated 10-12 degrees. Im not sure if my E30 power steering lines will work with this mystery E36 PS pump im using.
Carrier does not need to be cut or rotated as it will rotate with the trans (rear mount it round)

Linkage can just be heated and bent if you don't want to get crazy.

Stock E30 PS lines have always worked fine for me, including mounting the res. to the motor mount arm with the e36 bracket.

 

 

I will need to make a bracket for the oil dipstick tube, weld in the skidplate, blast and coat the headers, trim the oil pan if the flywheel rubs on it, install a new master cylinder, install new control arms with my new lollipops (mostly for exhaust clearance), finishing the exhaust system, buying a silicone intake elbow, buying and installing an electric fan, rethreading my e30 gauge cluster temp sensor, finding the correct OBD1 ecu coolant temp sensor (part number shows up as NLA but that cant be right) and identifying all the harness connectors since they are all very similar and unlabelled.

Any Blue temp sensor from an E36 will fly, less a 318.

 

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11 hours ago, Snap said:

 

  • The shift linkage and shift carrier (maybe, need to see how this fits in the car) need to be cut and rotated 10-12 degrees. Im not sure if my E30 power steering lines will work with this mystery E36 PS pump im using. Carrier does not need to be cut or rotated as it will rotate with the trans (rear mount it round)
    Linkage can just be heated and bent if you don't want to get crazy. Stock E30 PS lines have always worked fine for me, including mounting the res. to the motor mount arm with the e36 bracket.
  • I will need to make a bracket for the oil dipstick tube
  • weld in the skidplate
  • blast and coat the headers
  • trim the oil pan if the flywheel rubs on it
  • install a new master cylinder
  • install new control arms with my new lollipops (mostly for exhaust clearance)
  • finishing the exhaust system
  • buying a silicone intake elbow 
  • buying and installing an electric fan
  • rethreading my e30 gauge cluster temp sensor
  • finding the correct OBD1 ecu coolant temp sensor (part number shows up as NLA but that cant be right)  Any Blue temp sensor from an E36 will fly, less a 318.
  • identifying all the harness connectors since they are all very similar and unlabelled

I felt like I was ready a poorly listed craiglist ad. I fix dis for yew-

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I always wonder how much you cringe when you see me posting in here. I think I usually complain about your weird way of doing things lol.

I dont cringe, but it can be frustrating when you tell the entire nation that you did not have sessual relations with that woman and they still dont believe you.

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The valve cover gasket I received is for a non vanos engine.

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I first started trimming off these locating pegs from the gasket, passing it off as a small difference between X50 and X52 cylinder heads. Then after laying down a nice bead of RTV I lay the thing on and it doesnt clear the vanos unit 🤦🏻‍♂️



The header flange openings match up pretty well with the exhaust ports on the head. Since the gasket is large enough, I decided to radius the edge of the port to help with flow

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I looked at the project timeline I slated for this project and it should have been done by this week. I hadn't foreseen the Helicoil conundrum, but had that not been an issue I would have been pretty close.

I am a fan of making a goal and mentioning it to people so it gives me some accountability. I rarely hit the intended goal but I am sure I wouldn't make as much progress otherwise.


With that said, the new goal is to have the engine in the car and fired up by the Saturday after Halloween.

 

This week's goals are:

-Cleanup and install PS pump (the one I originally had for it doesn't fit)

-Blast the headers, order ceramic coating

-Modify shift linkage

-Replace trans input shaft seal (I don't think I recessed the seal far enough onto the shaft last time so I had some drops inside the bellhousing)

-Clean up and identify all connectors on wiring harness

-Mount wiring harness to engine

-Modify and install oil pan once and for all

-Install new rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, PP, and trans

 

 

Reasons why It wont be complete before Halloween:
-New control arms, resonator, Y-pipe, e-fan, and new master cylinder haven't been ordered.

-Still have not  renewed the registration. Going with a Hobbyist plate this time.

-Needs exhaust welding

-Needs alignment

-Needs a few small odds and ends and probably a new battery.

 

 

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