cpandrewschmidt Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Update after smoke test. Smoke test showed smoke. One point on intake boot elbow. Previous owner did some weird gluing thing to allow for the asc delete and tried to glue the extra nipple thing needed together with the stock elbow. I had previously discovered this one on my own and tried to jb weld the crap out of it. Honestly surprised it still leaked. Gonna order one of these bad boys and be done with it. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mishimoto-parts/silicone-intake-boot-blue/osee3692ibbl~msh/?gclid=CIGgtpKzxdMCFQWQaQod5DsOog Second area is on the supercharger body. Not a part where there's a gasket to fix. I'll get a picture later. Tech and I agreed the only fix will be to try some RTV sealant and hope it holds. This was a much smaller leak. Leaks seemed small to me but he claimed these would definitely be big enough on any car to trip the CEL. So, I'll hope it's that. B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Where did you go for the smoke test? I've been looking to do the same thing, but haven't really been sure where to go or how much it'd cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 On 3/3/2017 at 4:29 PM, patsbimmer1 said: I know you said you JB welded that boot really well but do yourself a favor and replace the boot if it's been torn at all. This may or may not be your issue but the boot is already weak if it's torn where you could see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 9 hours ago, P_Roloff said: Where did you go for the smoke test? I've been looking to do the same thing, but haven't really been sure where to go or how much it'd cost. McDermotts Service and Repair - 6525 Seybold Rd, Madison - 608-274-8288 Cost $114 with tax for the test. I have to find a way to make my own tester next time test takes about 15 mins to do. Trick is keeping the oil burning. I'll come up with some sort of DIY eventually. PatsBimmer - yes, new boot is on order, should be here Sunday. Unfortunately I still don't think this is the problem. Last night I RTV sealed the Sh&t out of the old one and plugged the small gap on the SC. Granted it could still be leaking, but i'd be surprised if it was. I put like 1/4" of sealant around the thing because I didn't care what it looked like. Cleared codes, rest adaptions and they came back. Guess I'll know one way or the other when the new one gets here. This brings me back to my vanos job. As I mentioned one of my CAM locking tools slipped while doing the job. If one of the CAMs is off just a little bit could that cause this problem? If so, how do I verify and how do I reset timing? Would I need to pull the Vanos and re-lock the CAMs flush after that's out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 6 hours ago, cpandrewschmidt said: This brings me back to my vanos job. As I mentioned one of my CAM locking tools slipped while doing the job. If one of the CAMs is off just a little bit could that cause this problem? If so, how do I verify and how do I reset timing? Would I need to pull the Vanos and re-lock the CAMs flush after that's out? I've pulled apart motors that were running well with one of the cams being a tooth or so off correct timing. I wouldn't be too concerned about your work, especially if you were using cam locks. For reference I never use the locking plates, and can get timing spot on first go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daggerty Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Ive never used any of the "special tools" the m52 in my 328i was a tooth off on the intake cam when disassembling and I was trying to figure out for awhile when reassembling why none of my marks were lining up. You can take the valve cover off and turn the engine over until the cams are pointing at each other, at a 45* angle and make sure the locking block slides on and sits flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 If you don't have the timing tools you can check that the squares are straight with a straight metal ruler as well. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk GunMetalGrey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Thanks guys, i plan to confirm timing in a few days if needed. Here are some strange happenings from over the weekend. Before the smoke test I was throwing codes of the following: Mixture Deviation Bank 1, Lambda regulation Bank 1, Cat Efficiency Bank 1 and 2, misfire cylinder 5 I got a new intake boot to fix that smoke leak and rtv'd the SC where needed, confirmed no more leaks in those spots. I moved spark plug from 5 to 2 and coil pack from 5 to 3 to see if that misfire followed. Cleared codes and reset adaptions. Now I get totally different codes attached, so maybe I'm making progress? I google for Aux Air Injection system and can't find anything. Only thing I find refers to the Secondary Air Pump system, in reading those threads that appears to throw it's own code, so I'm not sure if they're one in the same. Most of those threads are for e46 and new cars. I can't find anything e36 specific on this. Anyone ever seen that code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 It still has the air pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 2 hours ago, jc43089 said: It still has the air pump? Yes, is that not normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I didn't know with all of the other mods. Have you checked anything on it to see if it actually works? It has been a while since I worked on one but I think it only runs for a period of time when the engine is cold so the first thing to do would be to figure out what the correct sequence of operation and see if it is functioning. Maybe you already did this and I missed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 well, no real update on the m3. Still the CEL but drives fine. Been driving the e30 convertible lately. Came out of the office to this today. Anyone have a spare m20 oil pan?!? My damn luck........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Hows it going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted July 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2017 On 6/28/2017 at 6:10 PM, Snap said: Hows it going? It was a pretty small crack, only a millimeter or so wide and about half inch long. So, I just JB welded it and been driving it now for a couple weeks. So far so good. Time to buy a skid plate. Good thing I fixed this because 2 days later the M3 master cylinder broke so now that car is out of commission! Ugh, never ends Hopefully will be fixing that today and tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted July 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 well, got the master cylinder in. That's not a job I want to do again. I'm having trouble with the return spring though on the pedal. It looks like it's in where it should be but when you push the pedal down the spring is actually pushing the pedal towards the floor. Once the pedal is past halfway the spring slams it down and the pedal won't return. I haven't bled the master yet but there's no way I could see it having the force to push it back. The spring is hurting, not helping in this case. It was also VERY hard to install. The only way it'd fit was to zip tie it still the spring completely bottomed out. Here are some pics if anyone has an e36 they could snap a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted July 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 here's a video to try to show what i mean. spring video.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 4, 2017 Report Share Posted July 4, 2017 I vaguely remember the spring action on my car being like that. Just gotta get it bled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted July 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 well Snap was right as usual! However, 1 step forward, 2 back. I was reverse bleeding from the slave. removed it and pushed the piston in a few times and then started adding fluid to the slave. Seemed like I was putting a lot of fluid into it but never did get the fluid level to rise in the engine container so i figured I'm still pushing air out. Felt the clutch and it was getting a little resistance, so went back under and added some more fluid. Went to check the clutch again pushed harder. BOOM - blew the slave cylinder out. Rookie mistake. Guess I needed to reinstall it first. So, now will have to wait for a new part to arrive (unless someone here has a spare on hand?! Ugh....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 6, 2017 Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 At least the slave is a little easier install than the master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted July 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Finally got the clutch back up and running. So, figured I should show a few pictures after a wash and wax. No idea why they show up crooked. I rotated them and re-saved after uploading but they're still messed up. Oh well. Next project is to get a new trunk on. I'm not a fan of the huge spoiler on there. I found a nice white one without a spoiler at the junk yard. Got to strip it and paint it then I'll go with that and a smaller m5 style lip like shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Looks awesome! I have the e46 m3 lip spoiler on my coupe and its one of my favorite things I have done, would look great on your car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 not much new going on for the M3. Finally got around to a much needed interior and engine detailing. Saw Gliptone recommended on some other sites for leather seats. This stuff is great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VV423G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cleaned and re-treated with it. Finally fixed the saggy glove box too. Now just need some real M3 floormats and zhp knob. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpandrewschmidt Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Wife gone, proper garage. Also, mocking up some splitters I'm gonna make. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Only interested if you use double-wall cardboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Only interested if you use double-wall cardboard And if it passes an 80lb crush force test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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