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2003 s55 beater


Daggerty

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3 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said:

That's what seems to happen when you go with the cheapest option. I have learned that it's not worth wasting my time (or patience with incompetent idiots) on the cheaper shop. Just go to the place that knows what the hell they are doing and pay the extra ~$20 to get service that you can actually trust. 

Once I find the right house a tire machine and balancer is the first on my list. So hopefully this is the last time I have to bring my cars anywhere except for alignments. 

Hey Pat what would you recommend for a tire machine, or not recommend

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12 minutes ago, Daggerty said:

Once I find the right house a tire machine and balancer is the first on my list. So hopefully this is the last time I have to bring my cars anywhere except for alignments. 

Hey Pat what would you recommend for a tire machine, or not recommend

If you want the best, get a Coats.  You can find a used one for as cheap as $500.  We've got a lot in the company that have been in service for 15+ years with minor parts being replaced.  There's also a ton of parts that are interchangeable from old to new on those so they are easy to keep running.

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1 hour ago, Bassboy3313 said:

What does your shop charge to mount tires if I bring the wheels/tires to you? Don't forget the WB discount. :D

Hahaha!  It's typically $60 for mount/dismount/balance for 4 wheels.  It usually helps to get me involved before coming into one of my shops so I can get it set up.

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  • 1 month later...

Picked up some goodies soon to go in.

90 mm bbk (big black kock) throttle body for one of them dodges

Custom made 3k stall torque converter, have to do rear main seal so figured if the tranny is out do some mods.

car is running good, got a check engine light for evap system (very small leak)

cleared it and hasn't come back, I think it's due to leaving my car running when I fill up.

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Figured out my car had adjustable links, when I was checking things out for the torque converter install, in the rear for the ride height sensors (hydraulic suspension) 

So naturally I tested them out this is only half way they were in monster truck mode. 

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The front appears to be adjustable if I were to add some washers on the bolt holding the sensor to the bottom of the upper control arm, also with a longer bolt I should hit maximum low.

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  • 1 month later...

Ho lee fook!

Do you have to start off in 2nd to avoid having a Snoop Dogg concert form behind you?

How badly do you want to murder people after pulling/installing the trans on that car without a lift? Is it tolerable?

The thing friggin moves though, amazing work Dom!

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I can start in first, just have to ease into the throttle. That was more of a demonstration of the torque converter. 

Transmission was pretty easy, no diy on it so went in blind. Only thing that sucked was driveshaft had to come out, couldn't just push it to the side. 

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I'll do the headers first. To clarify these headers are for an e55, which is slightly smaller then my s55. The price tag for the s55 was 3.5x the price so I figured I'd make them work. IMG_1141.JPG

this was the first issue on the passenger side. Subframe heat shield I was able to cut that out, the smooth one, and push down the ribbed one onto the subframe. It's not by any bushings or rubber so it really doesn't need any protection at all. Then removed the bolt and shaved it so it was flush with the nut and gave the pipe the one two with a hammer for decent clearance.

The end of the header was resting up on the bottom of the car. Used a floor jack on the floor pan to make some extra room. That's about as far as I got on that. I'll have pictures within a year.

 

Now onto the BBK. 

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supercharger off the carIMG_1166.JPG

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Got it mocked up where I want it, this BBK is a tight fit. Notice in the bottom left it is almost touching the fpr, on the right it is touching (what they call a surge tank in Mercedes land) but I would call intake manifold or intake runner. I have to shave off the protruding engraved bbk logo, very little, too fit.  

I'm basically going to fill the shit out of the little snout where the throttle body connects and have a machine shop bore it out so I can drill and tap mounting holes. Obviously I will have them machine the matting surfaces flat. Open to recommendations on machine shops. Comparison of old vs new.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Got the snout pretty much complete on my end, I'm going to bring it to the machine shop on Tuesday. 

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also had to make some room for the headers on the driver side by chopping a chunk out of the subframe. It was just an extra tab for mounting hydraulic lines so no structural issues. The driver side collector outlet hits the floor and I can't make any more room with a hammer so I'm going to be cutting it and welding it on at a downward angle.IMG_1319.JPG

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