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I want to lower the front subframe a good bit (1" or more) but am sitting here debating what to do about the control arm bushing brackets, do I bring those down with? I don't enjoy the idea of that too much as their positioning is key to other geometry things, but I don't know if leaving them in the stock spot would be a good idea either...
Opinions?
Pic for reference (looks like they modified theirs to accept the e46 bushings)
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In attempt to not disappoint 

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I finally have a fully functional blower motor! Replaced the resistor for it last night and now I have all fan speeds!

IMG_20180108_191505



Got a cheap intercooler

IMG_20180108_191512



Tried to track down my coolant leak, but I had waited too long so everything appeared to be dry. Judging by where it had drained I am kind of wondering if the heater core itself is leaking. Going to spend a bit more time on that one. 

I had been getting a fair bit of oil leaking when parked, from weird areas, and yesterday realized why. 
The crankcase vent has some sort of oil separator and I underestimated how much oil that would move. The stock setup has the oil drain line going into the oil pan below oil level, and I think I'm going to take that hose and feed it into the dipstick tube (add a tube) or see if there is somewhere on the e30 pan I can plumb it into. 

IMG_20180108_192358

Large hose feeds over to the air filter as there is plenty of smoke that comes off that. 



I don't know if this has been seen in any of my pictures before. It's an Factory Five cobra rep. It's been amusing watching it go from a bare frame to where it is now.

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IMG_20180108_195806IMG_20180108_195824

 

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That Cobra is cool. IDK if that would be my choice if I was going to build a F5 car, but all those kits are sweet no matter what they are. Its so temping too as you can build one for roughly$10K starting. 

I was able to clean that fan switch on my car. But I am cheap so im sure it will fail again.

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I'm leaking fluids like they are going out of style.....

It looks like the heater core is leaking, and it is leaking enough to drain the expansion tank in a day or two. Gotta replace that.

I increased the fuel amount, and now the low pressure return on injector 6 is leaking a lot more than before. Gotta fix that.

I'm leaking oil out of the crankcase breather/separator. Gonna tap the return from that into the pan (like OE setup)


Adding more fuel was very amusing. Simple turn of a screw and now it is substantially faster. It also makes me want a different/new/bigger turbo knowing that the current one has compressor wheel wear and is likely less efficient than it should be.  
I took it out for a hot second last night, and I have more torque than traction down low, which is kind of a fun problem to have.

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On 1/16/2018 at 7:46 AM, GunMetalGrey said:

I'm leaking fluids like they are going out of style.....

It looks like the heater core is leaking, and it is leaking enough to drain the expansion tank in a day or two. Gotta replace that.

I increased the fuel amount, and now the low pressure return on injector 6 is leaking a lot more than before. Gotta fix that.

I'm leaking oil out of the crankcase breather/separator. Gonna tap the return from that into the pan (like OE setup)



Adding more fuel was very amusing. Simple turn of a screw and now it is substantially faster. It also makes me want a different/new/bigger turbo knowing that the current one has compressor wheel wear and is likely less efficient than it should be.  
I took it out for a hot second last night, and I have more torque than traction down low, which is kind of a fun problem to have.

I wish it was always that easy. 

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On 1/18/2018 at 7:50 AM, GunMetalGrey said:

Tried removing the #6 injector. 
27mm deep 1/2 drive with a 2.5 foot breaker bar. 
I got concerned as to what was going to give due to the amount of force I was applying, and nothing was moving. 

Yay stuck things!

Soaked with PB blaster for a few days? The injectors on my truck take a 30mm socket and had a 3ft pipe on a 1/2in Craftsman breaker bar and it still took force to break 'em all loose. 

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On 1/19/2018 at 9:32 PM, YoungCR said:

Soaked with PB blaster for a few days? The injectors on my truck take a 30mm socket and had a 3ft pipe on a 1/2in Craftsman breaker bar and it still took force to break 'em all loose. 

Yeah I hit it with PB. Steel injector bodies in an aluminum head, should be a fun one.

On 1/20/2018 at 5:11 PM, Daggerty said:

Try to take it out when the engine is at operating temp.

Yeah that may be my next attempt.

On 1/21/2018 at 8:02 AM, HipMF said:

Try to temp it when the engine is operating at take out.

I wish I would have thought of that before

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I had my wheaties for breakfast yesterday. 


I really leaned on the breaker bar and it turned about 1/8th of a turn and then got super tight. I rocked it back and forth then pressed on. Eventually it got to the point where I could unscrew the injector by hand. 
Caked full of crap, it came out.

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What the low pressure return should look like

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What the low pressure return did look like

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Now to find a "new" injector, or at least the back half.
I took it apart for fun.

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Now I need to figure out how/why this engine is leaking so much oil/fluid. This is nuts...

IMG_20180123_194105

 

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OH MAN that injector is junk. LOL

Check this out its filled with info.....

Quoted from a Bosch technical document then quotes from MyE28.com: 

These nozzles are known as Delay Pintle Nozzles, and are nearly always used with the Indirect Injection Engine, and have part numbers like, DN0S"D"299A.--The "D" in inverted commas, refers to Delay type nozzle.

"DN" "0" "S" D "299A"

"DN" referrs to Pintle type nozzle

"0" referrs to the spray angle, whether its defined as a number of degrees or not.

"S" refers to the size of nozzle body.

and "299A" refers to specific characteristics of that particular nozzle ( apart from this number its not possible to find the charaterictics of the nozzle from the makers)

Any letters before the "DN" refer to the maker, eg. B, C, K, R, V are all Lucas / Delphi maker codes, Bosch generally use just the basic number.
 
 
There is one in Bulgaria on Ebay for $40 if you cant find one. LOL
 
 
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I've been eyeing the one in bulgaria up for awhile now.
I have spent plenty of time on the diesel section of myE28, and that chart is useful for nozzles, but doesn't have any info on the bodies. Which appears to be a common thing. 

Going to try the junkyard for some VW injector bodies, they look the exact same. 

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I'm feeling like this is a wild goose chase to find/figure out how these injector nozzle holder codes work.

What I do know:
KCA30S50 is the nozzle holder for the M21 Turbo
KCA is the style of injector
KCA30S50 holders are impossible to find, and crazy expensive if you do find them ($200+ per holder)

What I don't know:
What the rest of the numbers truly mean, I have searched high and low for this info and am not coming up with much
The difference between a KCA30S50 (expensive as shit) and a KCA30S44 (Dirt cheap)


There is a diesel shop in Green Bay that I called and the guy seemed confident that he may even have injector bodies on hand, but I will likely be taking the mess of an injector that I have now and heading up there to pick his brain and see if we can get something figured out. 
I'm thinking of just welding the low pressure return shut on the #6 injector that was leaking, but since I have taken it apart I want to ensure the pop pressure is the same. 

I should have known this engine would get expensive lol. 

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