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'88 E30


KaiserRolls

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On 10/28/2017 at 8:59 PM, KaiserRolls said:

Swapped connectors. Gauge doesn’t jump full hot when I turn the key on now. Should be good.

FYI, both e36 obd1 harnesses I have indeed are two pin connections for the temp sensors. Only 1 pin sensor I can find that is close (distance wise) would be for the oil pressure switch.

(Manifold temp sensor may also be 1 pin as well - but I ruled this out because the length of the harness is a dead five away to where it connects to)

Awesome that this thing is so close! 

I know that the way I have my car set up is one connection is for the gauge, the other is for the ecu readout, and if you flip them, the guage would pin itself. Same with my E24, but that has one single pin, and a double pin. I have had the luxury of finding this out with both cars. lol

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  • 4 weeks later...

Never really liked the idea of the chiptune and no datalogging capability

I have spent a few hours already looking at piggybacks, emulators, and logging systems for OBD1. There just isnt a proper tuning solution that doesn’t involve guess and check.

Nothing will run a stock-ish engine better than a stock DME, but a completely different EMS like megasquirt is really the only solution if you want it dialed in 100%

Logs are awesome

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  • 3 weeks later...
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In the quest to lower intake temps, I have come to a realization.
After much deliberation with snap, wasntm3 & staring at the engine bay for hours- air to air and air to water Intercooling have been tossed as there is not sufficient room. Which leaves meth injection as the remaining option.
Next up on the to do list is to replace the intake & charge pipe with something a little less plastic that can hold some threads and dissipate heat better than the 1/4” thick abs.
Also I know my MS3 can control the spray, but at this point I’d rather get something that has its own controller for simplicity sake.
If anyone has some experience with any specific meth kits or if you’ve pieced your own together I’d love to hear about it.
Was looking at devils own/aquamist/snow performance


Picture of 20lbs of shit in a 10lb bag
d7a92a54f0c3f3a37c5751fa41c057dd.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Jdesign said:

After rotating my head 90 degrees onto my shoulder, I noticed that you have lots of ample room for all sorts of things on the left side of your engine bay......

 

air to air and air to water Intercooling have plenty of room to party over there.

Rotate your phone silly! 

Thought about it. That’s a lot of pipe routing to put it next to the headers 

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53 minutes ago, m42b32 said:

Info on the Moroso coolant expansion tank? I wont be able to use the Zionsville setup anymore and that looks like a nice solution. 

It’s an okay solution, quite a bit smaller size - shouldn’t really be much of an issue assuming the rest of the cooling system is adequate. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63766?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvaLUsozj2gIVEC9pCh1deg_8EAQYAyABEgLivvD_BwE

 

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1 minute ago, KaiserRolls said:

Rotate your phone silly! 

Thought about it. That’s a lot of pipe routing to put it next to the headers 

Get @patsbimmer1 to get you a price on this.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-snowperformance-parts/stage-1-water-meth-injection-kit/20001~sno/ 

I put together my own following this http://www.turbomirage.com/water there is different shuflo pumps you can use then what he has that are cheaper they just take up more space. I can get you the hook up on the lines for it and push in style fittings. The hobbs switch from Napa you can get else where for way cheaper than $30. Depending on what kind of oil pressure switch you can use them. Don't buy the wash rack nozzles he suggests just get some name brand ones that have R&D.

Is it worth doing it yourself? If you are like me and have all the stuff readily accessible at low cost and are the biggest Jew around, offense, then yes. 

If you can get one under $300, then do it if you just want an easy install that's done in a couple of hours. 

 

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There is no reason to run a whole bunch of intercooler piping when the intake is right there. You would just be robbing power. In turbo cars it makes sense because the exhaust is on the opposite side of the intake so you have to run the piping anyways so fmic air to air, yeah. 

Manufactures like to use air to water coolers because they take up less space in a way. You don't have a giant fmic to fit under a bumper cover. And they have more parts so more money for the dealer when they fail. These system also can only do so good if you are doing pull after pull unless you have it plumbed to your ac system or 10 gallon ice tank. 

Both of these also make more restrictions for the intake because you have a core for them to go through, turbulent air ,restriction, blah blah blah. No I am not drunk.

The 1 stage kit you can only have come on at one boost setting but you can tee off the line to put 2 nozzles in. A nozzle before the blower is ideal because it creates a seal around the fins rotors whatever you got. Creating that extra .0002 psi, something to do with it being compressed, moving it fast to evaporate, and its cooling the unit creating the boost down also. Some say this damages the turbine, there is no evidence supporting this. There is evidence however that the meth will eat away at the coating on certain rotors/screws.

When you tune it make sure you have a failsafe for the meth if it stops, weather it be a spark cut or you do your tuning without it then turn it on. Because running a tune created with meth can be as aggressive as race gas but if it stops then you're just on pump gas with a crap load of timing.

everything on the internet about meth can be found above by this guy who wasted his life typing it. Sorry if you read all that

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