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The biggest lie in bmw craigslist ads
“Needs a water pump/thermostat”

Translation: I dont give two craps about vehicle maintenance because it costs money n’ stuff. One day it started pissing coolant everywhere so I just keep topping it off and driving it. I gotta unload this piece of junk because the head gasket is probably bad and ive been driving on it with the needle pegged long enough that the head is probably cracked too. Im not about to spend any money fixing it and im not gonna take a loss by telling you the truth but by telling you the thermostat or water pump needs to be replaced I feel like im a good person.

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On 2/16/2018 at 2:01 PM, El Snapo said:

This weekend on WI SIENNAS:

I am replacing a rear wheel bearing on a relatives AWD Sienna.

A pre-assembled hub ranges from $79 online to $360 at the dealer.

Dealer cost to do the job is $840

Joe Schmoe mechanic was in the range of $500, likely using a bearing that was made from pot metal in an alleyway near a noodle shop in Taipei

Best price locally for a high quality hub assembly that I can get my hands on today is $295.67 after tax. It needs to be completed pretty urgently hence not saving $100 by getting a high quality part from online.

 

Here is to hoping that there are no seized fasteners and I can get this done by lunchtime on Saturday.

 

Watch for mushroom clouds in the New Berlin area otherwise

 

Well, did you git 'er done? It's 2:42, well after lunch.... 

 

I haven't heard any fallout predictions in New Berlin...

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I conquered it, though it took some time to get this hardware off. As you can see someone has already been in here and performed a park brake delete and ziptied the cable to the backing plate. Only the forward park brake shoe remained

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The PB blaster on the threads had started smoking from all the friction so a mushroom cloud had started to form above the van.

 

 

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There was a good 3/16” of freeplay when grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 and I cant hardly spin the old one by hand.

 

But yeah, no worries about fallout or duck and cover practice.

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, snap said:

Thats very cool! So does it just keep the blower running while the car is off until the heater blower temp matches the interior temp?

Criteria to run REST is as follows:

  • Ignition switch off
  • Ambient temp less than 59f*
  • Left heater core temp is greater than 158f*
  • Battery voltage is at least 11.4 volts
  • The time elapsed since the ignition was turned off is less than 15 minutes

Once the function is activated, the REST button LED illuminates, the blower runs at medium speed, the auxiliary coolant pump runs, the air distribution flaps are positioned to provide maximum heating. Blower speed, flaps positions, and desired temperatures cannot be changed while REST is active.

The system runs until any one of the following occurs:

  • Ignition switched on
  • Battery voltage drops below 11.4 volts
  • Coolant temperature drops below 86f*
  • The REST button is pushed again 15 minutes pass
12 hours ago, GB-335xiCoupe said:

Probably until your battery dies. LOL

It won't work if your battery is low, and I know that from personal experience, lol.

9 hours ago, Jeff said:

Ya know, I used that one time and it didn’t seem like it did much. I guess it wasn’t ice cold but didn’t seem that warm

Really? That's weird. Mine is always toasty warm! Might help to set the dial to maximum hotness before using it.

1 hour ago, jc43089 said:

It's interesting how a feature starts at the top end cars like 7 series and over time trickles down.  I worked on an e32 740iL that had an aux electric water pump so that you could continue circulating coolant and heating the interior for a while after shutting the car off.  

I thought it was a 2006+ feature, but someone commented saying they have it in their E39! I was surprised and amazed at the same time.

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