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Found 40 results

  1. I’m looking for a decent, working e30 medium case 4.10 rear end. Really just looking for an open unless someone wants to sell a lsd for cheap. It needs to work and not make noise, as I’ll reseal and repaint it before it goes into the car, and I don’t want to screw with replacing all of the bearings.
  2. I need to make more space in my garage, so I figured I'd list a few things and see if anyone is interested; 1. E30 steering rack. Its a BMW re-manufactured rack that came out of my 1991 318is, given it's a reman it has somewhere less than 150k on it. No leaks, worked perfectly when pulled. It's just really dirty from my car leaking oil from every conceivable place when I bought it, no rust on the fittings or lines and should clean up nicely. Tie rods are worn out, sorry for the crappy picture. $40 2. E30 coupe tan leather rear seat. Seat back is in alright shape, leather is a little hard at the top and the driver's side corner is a little wavy but not totally split open. Seat bottom has a big rip and is dirty. Foam in decent shape on both. $10 3. E30 m42 rear exhaust section, muffler was a cheapo replacement and cracked so I cut it off right at the flange. Resonator in perfect shape, no real rust/holes/etc anywhere. Would be perfect to weld on a decent muffler and have a good condition rear section for cheap. $10 I have more stuff I'll be listing beyond these few things, I'm just starting with bigger stuff. I will update this post with parts I determine I won't need or can't use in the coming weeks
  3. Hey All, I got these skirts online but they didn't fit my Vert. The ad stated they would... but alas they do not. They will however fit other E30's. Spent $175 on them. Looking for $125. They have never been mounted. I am including pics and info from the original ad. BMW E30 MTECH SIDE SKIRT SET FOR COUPE AND CABRIO Great fit on BMW E30 Coupe, Cabrio, Convertible. Finished in white primer Comes without fitting kit Made from top quality GRP fibreglass Comes as a set of Right Skirt And Left Skirt No Fitting kit but quite easy to install, you should fix them with black windshield glue or high temp. silicon
  4. E30 4 Bolt Rims for Sale

    Hey All, I am selling my 14 inch E30 wheels after picking up a different set. I have 5 with tires and one without. I can supply pictures of each rim individually if needed. Bolt pattern is of course 4X100. I am looking for $60 each OBO. Let me know if you're interested!
  5. M-Tech 1 3 spoke non-airbag steering wheel, fine spline in good condition. SOLDTwo Complete Sets of Wheels:15" Basket Weave wheels w/center caps, good condition with tires (195/65/15). 4 x 100 bolt pattern. Offset for IX models, will work with non-IX models with appropriate spacers on the front wheels. Extra damaged wheel included. $350 obo17" ACT 5-spoke aluminum wheels with tires (235/45/17), 4 x 100 bolt pattern excellent condition. $325 oboThanks for looking!! located in Waupaca
  6. Hi Everyone, I am moving to a slightly smaller garage and will need to get rid some extra parts I will likely not need as well as my parts car (1991 318i) because I will no longer have a place to put it at the end of september. I will be removing as much as I can before then and will likely be scrapping the shell unless someone wants it. The car is a 5-speed, has 400k on it, but has been maintained (mechanically) very thoroughly for its entire life. Engine runs great despite the mileage and trans shifts well. It is very rusty as it has been used as a winter beater since 1999. Pics: Things I know I will be keeping/using so far: - Much of the interior (door panels, front/rear seats, consoles, possibly the carpet, etc) - Differential - Headlights - Cluster - Bumpers (At least the front, may be willing to sell the rear) - Radiator - I lip and valence trim (possibly valence if it's savable, though I doubt it) I will post things for sale/free as I take them off the car and determine that I wont need them, or PM me if you are looking for something in particular. I have fairly limited time so if you want/need something that is time consuming or difficult to remove, I'll make it extra cheap if you help pull it (Engine/trans for example). I'd like to keep it as a roller for as long as possible. Car is located in wauwatosa.
  7. Hello I'm seeking the following parts all for a 1987 E30 325i E30 LSD it good working order Rear bumper parts (Sides, top and rear rubber parts that attach to aluminum bumper) Front seats (Sport seats preferred) Coolant Tank Driver side fender Front and Rear Roundels Thanks for the time!
  8. FREE save it from the scrapyard! Unknown miles, makes noise, speedo sensor is meh, is begging to be welded.
  9. Anybody ever re-wrap a steering wheel? The leather is torn on the top of my e30s MTech wheel and I'd like to find someone to fix
  10. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xhddb2buY0
  11. I'm throwing my hat into the Alpine arena. It's a CALIFORNIA (!!!) 1990 Alpine 325i Sedan. Automatic, and the M20 has about 260k miles on it + a leaking head gasket. But these are perfect conditions for a M50 5-speed swap. We picked up this guy around the end of December before Christmas, however with the fact that we have two E34's to attend to and the calypso e30, my project schedule was pushed back a bit The driver's side of the valance is forked pretty badly, so I'll be swapping that with a brand new one. Other than that, this body is pristine. I don't have any solid pictures of the interior but it has gray cloth seats, which the driver's seat is a little tattered but nothing horrible. Let's get up to speed: Dec. 20th, 2016 We found the car on a farm outside of Verona sitting under snow, which we had come to learn had been sitting for quite some time since the guy had a lot of other project cars. But to our disbelief, there is zero rust on the car and it started up immediately after wiping off the snow. Somehow this car sat on Madison Craigslist for two weeks without anyone even coming to check it out?? I swear I thought it was a scam, it was quite literally a Christmas miracle. Chris survived the drive back on probably the baldest and rotted set of spare tires I've ever seen. Cleaned it up to get rid of all the salt, cause it'll never be seeing a winter again. Dec. 22nd, 2016 Since Ben was home from SC for the holidays, we pulled the M50 from a parts 95 E36 325i we had sourced a few weeks prior, which was put out of commission due to the hood flying up and smashing the windshield while driving. The motor was running a week before it was picked up, however it's believed the starter went out, which doesn't matter since I need a new one for the swap. Removing it was a breeze with four people and the core supports sawzalled off. that e36 is mega scrapped by now. Feb. 19th, 2017 The E30 twins currently sit together. I took this the day we got the Calypso M20 running. Forgot to mention around this time I scored some side skirts from Dan, which you can see leaning on the wall next to the E28. Mar. 18th, 2017 The M20 pull has begun. Andy stopped by to drop off the set of 15'' Weds Bavaria 4x100 rims he no longer wanted. I think they look fresh as hell, and are a perfect fit for the Alpine. I'll be looking into powder coating them in the future, but for now they're in perfectly acceptable condition to run. I found a thread on E9 Coupe that pointed out that 68mm BMW center caps fit these guys perfectly, so I ordered a set of them. Very excited to see how they look on the car. I also picked up a pressure washer today. Hoping to get a good engine bay wash going once the motor is pulled. Here's my WIP parts list so far if you're curious of my plans. I'd tell you that this is for you, but it's actually for me. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1g5PsFmSzEas-rl7x8jwDGZs5WF2SzdOdVU6ErX8QxGI/edit?usp=sharing
  12. E30 Battery Cable Terminal

    I'm finally trying to secure my battery properly (trunk mounted battery in an 89 325i), but i've got a bit of an issue. The battery cable that is currently on the car does not appear to have the correct terminal on it, which means that it wont work with the proper battery (group 48?) The correct one is pictured below on the left (it has a unique 90 degree drop thingy), and the one that I have is similar to the one on the right (it's just straight). Can I buy the correct end and crimp it on (i suspect not), or do i have to buy a whole new cable? The problem with having the straight terminal is that it can't make the tight 90 degree corners in the battery well to connect to the positive terminal of the correct battery, which means i cant use the correct battery tie down. The alternative is that i use a completely different battery and fabricate my own battery hold down. This seems easier to me right now, but i value your opinions.
  13. Random parts for sale

    I have an assortment of random things I wont be needing or can't use for my car so I figure'd I'd list things for sale: 1. Light smoke/clear euro side marker conversion?for e30 or e28 (or others, not sure). SOLD 2. Euro clock adapter for cars equipped with a 13 button OBC. It came with my clock (not for sale) and my car has a 6 button so I cannot use it. $25 shipped 3. 13 button OBC with coding plug (can get info on plug if you need it). It came as a spare with my vert (manual m20 if it matters), but I have no use for it. Good condition, screen looks to be good but I don't have a known good one to compare it to, minimal wear on buttons. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to 100% verify if this works and as a result I am asking $25 shipped non-refundable, or $40 shipped with $30 refundable if it doesn't work 4. Pair of e30 rear subframe bushings SOLD 5. E36 modular console parts. Coin tray had all it's pieces fall out so it isn't pictured here. Ashtray is in very good condition, 2nd cup holder is missing two of the 'clips' that deflect around the cup. $20 shipped each for the ashtray, and the frame. Bad cup holder and coin thing are $5. 6. E30 AC parts. All of this was pulled from my '91 318is - Compressor is probably no good as the AC did not work but the system held pressure, probably best to use as a core: $20, this is heavy so I'd rather not ship it - AC lines, No rust. I believe they are usable for an r134a conversion: $10 per line - AC dryer? The can thing behind the headlight: $10 - M42 ac compressor mounting bracket and belt tensioner, bearings are quiet: $20 - Condenser may have taken a hit in the accident, a little surface rust, still held pressure: $5 - Radiator and undertray not for sale 8. Set of beat up poly eccentric e30 rear trailing arm bushings, not sure if anyone would want these but I figured I'd post them up. One of the bushings is missing the key that goes between the bolt and sleeve: $10 shipped All prices are OBO, I'd be happy to make package deals on multiple things. Shipping is included in asking prices in lower 48, please PM me for a shipping quote if you are outside that.
  14. e30 parts

    errthing sold. thanks dudes.
  15. Wtb E30 dash in any condition

    As the title states, I want to buy a dash, in and condition. The cheaper the better.
  16. So a while back I found this site looking for some random picture of some rare random part. I have since visited back many times due to the awesomeness of the e30s and the great details. I just thought I would share it in case anyone else might have missed this site and wanted something to gawk at. Enjoy:) https://drive-my.com/social/groups/item/49-bmw-e30-club.html?tag=2014
  17. I did a thing!

    Well today I made a trip down to Chicago to pick up this: ^ Crab! Its a red on tan 1992 325i vert with 132k on the clock. Its a 5-speed with a factory LSD and apparently spent most of its life in California so the car is basically rust free aside from one tiny surface rust spot on each door jam. There's a big dent in the driver's fender/door, but otherwise the paint is in great shape! The interior is actually in decent shape too, just really dirty. The drivers seat is trashed but the passenger seat is in great shape, a little splitting at the top of the rear seat, and the top has seen better days, but the dash is crack free! Maintenance hit list: Timing belt, valve adjustment, cooling system overhaul, diff mount and CSB (knock from the rear on acceleration/hard shifts, hoping its not the driveshaft u joint), and general filter/fluid replacement. The main reason I bought the car: It was pretty cheap and came with a nearly complete e30 M3 5-lug swap (only thing missing is the front brake calipers) and includes the m3 4.10 LSD and axles that I'm going to swap onto the 318is.
  18. E30 brake issue

    Lately, I've been having an interesting problem with the e30. Once the brakes heat up, the left rear rotor/caliper makes an awful squealing noise, but only while off the brakes. Once you press the pedal, it goes away. I've tried anti squeal but it didn't change anything. Any ideas on what's wrong? I'm thinking it's probably a dragging caliper, but maybe someone on here has some insight.
  19. First E30

    Hey everyone, I'm Johnny, back in april I picked up an 89 318i, had the car for a month and took it to SoWo in Helen, GA with @Earl and @johnprusinski car performed flawlessly and I'm very happy I also have a stupid slammed 94 miata, it has broken 2 laptops my girlfriend has a bagged 04 mini cooper s, and i race autocross at miller park in my dads 08 honda s2000 cr I've got a husky named Banksy and I live in Oconomowoc
  20. So, this has happened a few times, but not in awhile. Previously, I figured out that the problem was a loose fuel line clamp on the top of my fuel tank under the back seat. If I park on just the right angle or slope, my car would have a difficult time firing. It would turn over fine, but just keep cranking with a little sputter here and there. If I would wait a minute or two and try again, sooner or later it would fire, and once it was running, it would be fine. I fixed the fuel line and haven't had a problem since.....SINCE today. I was pretty low on fuel and when I started my car this morning, it took a few extra cranks to fire. I thought maybe is was because my car was on E. So I drove to the gas station, shut it off and filled it up. Got back in, crank it and a few sputters and nothing. Awesome. So I sat there for a few minutes. My car was at that perfect slope at the pump. Crap. So I tried again and it fired a little more but then died and showed no further signs of firing. So I sat there and thought to myself thinking; did my fuel pump just die? Well what else is there? FUEL -Relay -OEM -Pump -OEM (I think) -Filter -New SPARK -plugs -New -wires -Old as shit :/ -cap/rotor -New So I got out, pulled the relay for the FP out and cleaned it off with what I had. ( a towel ) I put it back in, and tried again. The car cranked and slightly fired. I stopped, pumped the gas while cranking again, fired right up. So.... I assume the relay is bad, but can anyone confirm this is my actual problem? Or could it actually be the pump, and for some reason the time it sat there while I cleaned the relay allowed it to work again? I have a new pump and I will be buying a new relay regardless.
  21. Looking under my car, the fuel feed line is thickly rusted over to the point of flaking off. I am considering replacing the entire line from fuel tank to engine. Has anyone else run into this? Does it make sense to replace? Where can I find a new fuel feed line? Thanks!
  22. Hey guys, Does anyone know where to properly mount an alternator ground cable on an e30 m20? I've searched online and in my repair guide with no luck. It looks like it can reach from the back of the alternator to the engine mount ground cable location. Is that where it should go? Hoping it will limit the amount of radio whine I am getting. Thanks!
  23. My e30 has an oil leak in the very lower front left side. It looks like the source is two small pipes behind where the front spoiler would go. I have attached two photos. What part do I need to replace? Thanks
  24. Need Clutch Fan Wrench 32mm e30

    I'm replacing my clutch fan on a e30 this weekend. Does anyon know of a spot in Madison that sells or rents one? Or perhaps would lend me one? I went to auto zone, harbor freight and northern tools. NT has a Ford clutch fan wrench set. Tho not sure that will fit. thanks
  25. Hi guys, I need help identifying this e30 trim part on my 1991 325ix 4-door. I am missing the chrome trim above/behind window on the driver-side rear door. It's only the piece above the triangular part of the rear door window. I have the part circled in green (not my car). Thanks!
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