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About HipMF

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    My other BMW is on jackstands.

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  1. Yep, I used to program, run and maintain a Universal axial inserter. She was a blast from the past. The computer that ran the thing was the size of a microwave oven and only slightly more powerful than a Commodore 64 (not even exaggerating). Crazy high-tech stuff by late 80s standards, but I left tech school in 2011...
  2. You really took the wind out of my sails by posting the resistor value... Memorizing the resistor color code is one of the few skills I picked up at my last job. A resistor in series with the injectors would limit current through then circuit. It's a bit of a mystery to me why they would want to do that, but my guess is that the DC resistance of the injector when it's on might be too low for the driver circuit. Electrically, an injector is an inductive load. Inductance resists a change in current flow through a circuit. So, if you want to turn the current on and off very rapidly, you need to keep the inductance low. In practice, inductance, resistance and magnetic force are all related. So my guess is that to get a high enough magnetic force to open the valve of the injector (which has fuel pressure pushing it closed), and get the injector to open and close very quickly (which means changing the current flow very quickly), they had to lower the inductance (and in turn, the resistance) to a point where, when the injector is fully "on", the DC resistance is too low for the driver circuit. Kind of shooting from the hip here, but that's my best guess. Putting the resistor in the harness instead of the ECU means you can change the injectors after-the-fact without having to rev up the ECU, not to mention that it probably generates a fair amount of heat...
  3. Did you remember to take the paper towels out before putting the intake manifold on?
  4. From what I'm reading on the interwebs, it sounds like a small-case e30 would work as well...
  5. Let's just say mine isn't usable anymore. Anyone have a spare? Schmidt's won't sell the cover separate from the diff because fluid and the DNR and stuff. Haven't called Gibsons yet, but I'm sure it's the same there. Cheapest one on ebay looks gross and is $90...
  6. They usually have them, but I would contact someone at the club before an event to remind them to bring one for you. Otherwise I have a spare motocross-style helmet you could use. Also have a spare e34 (minus wheels and tires)...
  7. Alternators use juice from the battery to drive the stator, which in turn causes current to flow in the field. Regulation occurs by changing the current through the stator. This way, the field current can be kept constant over a wide range of speeds. I don't have any actual data, but supposing that an alternator charges well enough between 800 and 8000 rpm, then it should work equally well between 20 and 200 mph. Stress on the pump would only be an issue if there is some restriction in the circuit causing back pressure. If the pump is low-volume, and the lines and cooler are a reasonable diameter, there would be very little pressure in the system. Probably only a few psi, but I guess that depends on fluid viscosity... Guess it all depends how much flow is required to keep the temperature down to an acceptable level... If it breaks once and causes you to lose a race, then that's one too many times. Flat slide carbs were once common in motorcycles. I guess the logic is that when the throttle is wide open there is no obstruction in the intake path like a butterfly, and the air path through the throttle can match the runners (ie be round) unlike a round slide carb which widens in that area when the slide is pulled away.
  8. Tried to resist, but failed.
  9. #christmasjazz that i don't even hate. Not overly cheerful like most of the christmas music we've been beaten over the head with, but not exactly melancholy either. Perfectly suited for a charlie brown world...
  10. Looks like HF is the way to go. I wonder if the long-reach model would be worth a try... Loos like it's bigger and heavier, but also should reach farther under a low car and also goes about 4" higher than the regular low profile jack. https://m.harborfreight.com/2-ton-low-profilelong-reach-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60678.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot provided
  11. The google thinks I might like this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/rocker-jack-pad-adapter/001852sch01a/ Called me out on my my wannabe hipster e36 lifestyle ;_;
  12. I have a good size, steel harbor freight floor jack. It works, but isn't low car friendly, and even more annoyingly, the difference between a stationary load and a load accelerating downward at 9.8 m/s² is about 1 or 2 sticky degrees of handle rotation. I was at Sears today picking up some replacement sockets for ones that I've broken, modified or lost. Saw they have a 2½ ton low-profile model on sale for a pretty modest price. Before I pulled the trigger, I decided I'd check and see if anyone had any recommendations, positive or negative experiences with particular brands or models. Despite being exceptionally mediocre in the performance category, my current floor jack been dead reliable. Hence, I've felt that I'm stuck with it. It's hard to justify replacing something that "works just fine". Looking for something that hits both those targets so that I don't spend another 15 years feeling like I'm stuck with a jack that doesn't work well or fit my needs.
  13. *ugh* Took advantage of the long weekend and got started on the subframe/trailing arm bushing replacement. Everything came apart pretty decently, aside from the e-brake cables. Built a puller for the subframe bushings, which worked pretty well. Had to modify it a little to pull the new bushings all the way in. Turns out the top and bottom of the subframe are slightly different diameters... New rubber bushings pulled in easier than I thought they would. After that I decided it would be a good idea to bend a trailing arm... I was using a long threaded rod through to the other side of the arm to pull in the new bushing. Turns out the arm will bend far easier than I would have thought. So, instead of spending Saturday putting the car back together, I got to go to Gibsons and pull a trailing arm (luckily they have a couple TIs there). Broke a socket while I was there trying to remove the caliper bolts, so I had to carry the trailing arm with caliper, rotor and half of a half shaft a good quarter-mile back to my car. The axle nut on the junkyard trailing arm was seized pretty bad, so I decided to cut through the entire hub with a sawzall, right behind the nut. Should have taken a picture of that, as it was pretty comical, but worked well. Needless to say, between that and cranking on home-made bushing pullers, I was starting to feel my age by the end of the day Saturday... Up until this point, I was kind of worried that I might be wasting my time, because none of the bushings that I pulled out really looked that bad. Then, when I was cleaning up Sunday, I found this guy: One of the trailing arm bolts. Funny, I didn't notice that earlier. Dug through the old trailing arm bushings and found one had a larger ID than the others... Looks like bolt was loose and inner sleeve of the bushing was rotating with the suspension instead of being clamped by the subframe. Thankfully the subframe doesn't seem to have any wear from it. So, I guess that explains the wonky feeling in the rear of the car... The inner race came out of the wheel bearing while disassembling the salvage-yard trailing arm, so I'm replacing that. As long as I'm ordering stuff, I decided to get new CV boots, and a couple other little things. Looks like the outer boots will be take a couple weeks to get here, so I'll probably leave the half-shafts as-is for now and just put everything back together. Probably a godsend, #missioncreep is real.
  14. You probably already have a solution, but If you draw something up in CAD, I can cut an adapter out of phenolic on the CNC router. I wouldn't be able to do it until next weekend though.
  15. No one knew what I was talking about, so I must have made the whole thing up. Only suggestions I got were to check the farm equipment/bobcat places. Maybe call one of the equipment rental places and ask them where they go for stuff like that?