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About jc43089

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  • Birthday 04/30/1989

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    Senior Electronic Technician

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  1. That would be nice, the e36 has a different style bracket to do the same thing. It looks as though the bean counters saved a few pennies. It's not bolted on, just snaps into a part welded to the bottom of the tunnel.
  2. I have a new Genuine late model expansion tank, never used. 85$ shipped. FCPEuro price 105.09.
  3. Changed the oil, rebuilt the shifter linkage which turned out to be a mess. The shifter I think is just a modified factory shifter, maybe from a z3, but the bottom had been machined for a couple bearings the were partly disintegrated and all the balls were gone. I replaced the front shifter carrier bushings with delrin from Garagistic, and the rear bushing I cut all of the rubber out and installed the poly bushing from Garagistic. I jumped on their black friday sales. The rear poly is very hard durometer and was too big to allow the spring clip to go in so I had to sand some off with a belt sander, it is still really tight. I drilled out the bottom of the shifter itself and turned a brass bushing to press in. Then put it all together with my UUC Motorwerks DSSR. It's tight now. The only thing better I think would be a floor mount shifter with no carrier. I took some pics but I need to find my Flikr password...
  4. Looking good!
  5. Stupid question, what cars have a red label? I don't know what I have from my 94. It is just sitting in the basement and I could mail it if you can't find anything closer.
  6. I'm not sure what the learning procedure is for OBD2, for OBD1 I believe it runs on preset tables for cold start always, but I am not sure if it learns and adjusts after "seeing" the engine run at temperature. You are probably right that with OBD2 it adjusts startup parameters based on warmed up characteristics.
  7. I would imagine with the hot/cold wheel unplugged you would either get always hot or always cold air from the face vents because the flap is electronically controlled. That part of mine works, just the pins on the housing where the main flap with the handle for adjusting direction of air are broken so without the main flap with a handle the rest just hang wherever. I'm not really set on fixing it on this old clunker just thought if the parts were otherwise going in the dumpster. You should probably leave yours in if it's working.
  8. Nice work, excited to see this beast rolling coal!
  9. I need the electronic one. Which one do you have? If it's electric PM me where to send monies.
  10. Bad gas could be a significant problem. Especially if it was not ethanol free. I would disconnect a feed line and jumper the pump relay to pump it out into a jug. Then hook the line back up and put fresh gas in and then run the pump with the jumper again for a minute to circulate it. Then run it again. o2 sensor isn't a problem for a cold start.
  11. You could use a screwdriver or stethoscope to see if those injectors are clicking like the others while running. Another thought is bad spark plug boots causing the spark to be shorted out when actually installed. I assume you had the coil pack pulled out and laid on top to test?
  12. Sounds good, I wasn't sure what your were going for so I thought I would mention it.
  13. Are you wanting to go mega low? You might be better off with just lowering springs and good shocks. You will end up with an excellent ride and not be too expensive. I have Eibach shocks/springs and it rides great and is low enough. Lot's of people do H&R springs with Bilsteins too. Just throwing another option out there. You can also expect a good shock spring combo to last for many years and miles where cheap coilovers likely will only last a few years, especially in our nasty winter climate. I have some Bilstein rear shocks that don't look pretty but seem to work ok that you can have for free if you want them. They need new upper mounts. I live on the IA/MN border on I35, I think you mentioned you weren't far from Minnesota.
  14. Hit 280k. Oil change this weekend. Snow tires are on, looking sexy with my bottlecaps. I installed center m3 front control arm bushings. Installed my UUC poly RTAB bushings from my other car, the ones in there were toast. I found a stuck in the nut but not tight bolt on the rear left lower control arm where it connects to the subframe so I will cut that out and replace it. Adjustable lower control arms which is nice. I got 3 of the 4 adjustments freed up and anti-siezed, I just disconnected one end of the arm with a stuck end and turned that end twice as many turns. Took my camber from about -2.8 degrees to about -1.5. That should improve tire life and doesn't look as terrible with stock wheels and pulled fenders. Coming in the mail today is a new ball joint for the rear upp. It has quite a bit of wobble to it. Hopefully get that done this weekend.
  15. You don't want a total muffler delete. It will be fun for about 2 days. I made something that looks like the Rouge DMS. It sounds great but I don't have anything that would record it with any hint of quality. The mufflers were 55$ shipped from Heartthrob. There are some pictures in my thread. The pipe I used was EMT conduit from the scrap bin at work but it could be done nicer. This car has 280k on it... http://heartthrobexhaust.com/glasspacksandflowpacks.htm I think I used 2612501 they are made in Minnesota and the quality is significantly better than cheapo mufflers like Thrush you find at your local parts store for the same price. They also offer stainless of the same thingfor about 70$ each I think.