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m42b32

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Everything posted by m42b32

  1. ....and so it begins, project Turtle Farts.

    That's a bummer... did you ever get a tracking number or are they just not shipping it?
  2. Here is a great way to deal with the rear end damage! https://www.smythkitcars.com/jetta-golf-ute
  3. Hayden's Stock 325i Build Thread

    That's a steal for a real set of m-pars!
  4. Alpine e30 progress/build thread

    Had some time to work on this on Sunday. Installed a new water pump (with an impeller that faces the correct direction) and ECS aluminum water pump pulley. I also got as far as I could installing the Beisan Systems dual vanos seals and anti-rattle kit. This is a much easier job on the M54 compared to the S52 since you don't need to deal with the splined interface between the cam and the piston. Got the valve cover off, cam lobes and lifters all look excellent. Could be a little cleaner, but there really isn't any sludge so I can't complain. Vanos unit removed and disassembled: The anti-rattle kit made a huge difference, so hopefully they are nice and quiet. Before I took them apart there was a pretty significant amount of axial play, but once the new spacers were installed it was completely gone while still allowing them to spin freely. I didn't have to do any sanding or adjusting on either piston which was a nice surprise since that can get tedious. New seals went in easily as well. Got it all reinstalled but ended up breaking one of the plastic plugs that covers the bolt holding the piston to the cam, so I can't go any further till I order a new one.
  5. I figured I'd start a progress/build thread for my e30 like I did for the e36! I posted about the car before but for the sake of completeness: It's a 1991 318is slicktop in Alpine white with an Indigo cloth interior. It was built on April 26th, 1991 which I believe is the very end of production for the e30 coupe so thats pretty cool. It spent most of it's life in Florida so it is basically rust free but like most old southern cars a lot of the plastics are very faded and brittle. I am planning on doing an OEM+ build and just bringing it back to its former glory. On to the pics! I tried to get the color of the door panels but the camera didnt pick it up too well, I have never seen this color before but I think it looks pretty cool After a nice cleaning The seats have definitely seen better days (the rear seat is trashed) and the carpet is mostly torn out, other than that and a few other little things the interior is actually in pretty good shape. The dash is 99% crack free with only a tiny one in the tray above the glove box. I am planning on removing those white face gauge stickers (hard to see here) as soon as I can as they are impossible to see at night, hopefully they come off easily... I originally thought it had the standard IS lip in the front as I never looked at it too closely but I highly doubt its OEM, does anyone know what kind of lip this is?? There are no markings and it appears to be made of fiberglass. I kinda like it actually, its subtle and a little different. In terms of mechanicals, the engine is in excellent shape with a recent head gasket and timing chain replacement as well as all the related hoses and gaskets, taking care of all of the m42's serious problems for the time being. Everything else is in good shape but the suspension is definitely tired and it rattles over bumps, especially from the rear. On top of the normal new car maintenance where I plan on changing every fluid, The brakes suck and are past it so I have a full brake rebuild on the way with rotors, pads, sensors, and fluid for all four corners as well as a fan clutch (the temp climbs at stoplights), and a lower oil pan gasket as it leaks...a lot. The drivers side tie rod is shot so I have two new ones coming to fix that. Hopefully I can get all this stuff done in the next week and a half because I will be returning to school then and the car will be going into storage when I return in October.
  6. the one and only e30 s52 engine swap

    Thanks for the link on the tank! I'll need one whenever I start working on my sedan since it doesn't have one. Keep us posted with what you end up doing for that connecting pipe at the bottom.
  7. the one and only e30 s52 engine swap

    You might have a really hard time finding one of those lines, since any that could be removed from a gas tank are likely attached to a good condition tank. If you can figure out what kind of fittings they are, it might not be too hard to make one.
  8. Looks like it would be pretty easy to measure out a box, find some mount points and wing it
  9. Google Street View Challenge

    Hence the dammit haha, I spent a long time looking and that was the only BMW I could find...
  10. Shop Life 2.0

    I'm excited to hear how it sounds!
  11. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    The morning practice runs were basically hot laps, didn't have to wait more than a few minutes between each!
  12. So I've been looking for a daily driver and after months of considering things that were practical and reasonable... I stumbled upon this! Its a 1999 BMW M3, 5 speed, Alpine white III on a very clean Modena interior. Its got 102k on the clock and I bought it from the second owner! I'll post some pictures of the interior once I get it cleaned up a bit, its pretty dirty in there but overall it is in amazing shape. When I bought it the battery wouldn't hold a charge so I got a new one, but on startup the battery light flickers a little so it might need an alternator as well. I'm planning on doing the cooling system ASAP as well. That and just give it a full service, change all the fluids, etc. Oh...and the check engine light/abs/asc lights are on. Pulled the codes on the check engine light and it looks like the O2 sensors so I will be putting some new ones in before getting it emissions tested. Codes were P0133 (O2 sensor) and P1188 (AFR issue) so they are probably related. If anyone has more info on these that would be greatly appreciated!
  13. Steelblue E36 Build Thread

    What dashcam are you using? I have been meaning to install one in my car
  14. Google Street View Challenge

    Wooo! New challenge: Find any 3-series on a US Interstate
  15. Here is a parts list and DIY for the floor mounted shifter I built for my e30. It is similar to the Bimmerworld race shifter or the AKG stage 2 shifter (not as pretty, but also not nearly as expensive). Parts list: Spherical bearing: FK bearing WSSX12T, x1 Bearing weld cup: FK bearing CPW12, x1 Bronze Bushings: McMaster 5448T5, x2 1/2x13 Coupling Nut: McMaster 90264A485, x1 High Misalignment Spacers: 3/4" to 1/2", x1 pair 1/2x13 stainless nut, x1 1' 1/2x13 Steel Threaded Rod, x1 1' 1/2 Steel Rod, x1 3/4" OD, 0.51" ID, 0.12" Wall steel tubing, short piece. x1 16 gauge steel plate, x1 5/8" square tubing, x1 1/4-20 x 1.5" bolts, x4 1/4-20 stainless nylock nuts, x4 1/4" stainless washers, x4 Total parts cost: $90, though I used stainless hardware and bought the metal at Lowes so it can definitely be done cheaper. This doesn't include the BMW parts to rebuild the rest of the linkage. First, I drilled out 1/3 of the threads on the coupling nut with a 1/2" drill bit, ground off the zinc plating, and welded it to the 1/2" steel rod. I cut a 17mm piece (Critical that this part does not exceed 17mm, a little under is ok), and welded it to a 5" piece of threaded rod after grinding off the plating near the welded area. On the round tube, you will need to open up the ID slightly to 13mm so that the bushings are able to slide into place. You do NOT want to press the bushings into the tube as they will compress and no longer fit over the shaft on the selector rod. You'll notice that the high misalignment spacers don't match the ball in the spherical bearing, they will have to be ground down (or put in a lathe if you have access to one) to bring the flange down to below the size of the bearing. Moving on to the shifter mount. Cut a 1-3/4" hole in the steel plate to fit the bearing weld cup. I used a metal hole saw but you could also drill a smaller hole and file it to size. Weld the bearing cup facing upright into the hole with about 1/4" sticking out from the bottom of the plate. Pay attention to the heat from the welder to avoid warping the cup. Once the cup is welded in place, measure the size of the hole in the trans tunnel on your car, and cut the plate so that it is about 1/2" larger in diameter. Here is the shifter assembled to this point: To affix the base to the car, drill 4 1/4" holes at the corners of a 2" square centered around the bearing cup. Put the 1/4-20 bolts through the holes from the top and weld the heads to the plate to fix them in place. Cut a 5" piece of the square tube and split it evenly in half along the length. Underneath the car, mark where the flange of the shifter hole pass by the bars and cut back the tube so it fits over them. You may also need to clearance them for the bottom of the weld cup. Match up the bolts on the base to the two pieces you just made and drill the respective holes to 3/8". This is what the final pieces should look like (after paint) Assembled in the car with lock nuts: Note: when painting the parts, do not get paint on the inside of the bearing weld cup. Currently, the height of the lever is very tall, and the shift throws are extremely short. With the shifter mounted in the car, mark where you would like the final height of the knob to be, and then remove and cut the upper half to size. Re-mount the shifter into the car and connect the selector rod. Test the shift pattern, it will likely be extremely short and require a lot of force to get into gear. Lengthening the throws will reduce the force needed to change gears. Shortening the bottom half of the shift lever will lengthen the throws. Remove 1/4" to 1/2" from the top of the threaded rod and reinstall to test the shift throw. Repeat this step until you have the desired throw. Don't go too far, or you will have to re-make the bottom half of the lever. ] Once you have the shift height and throw exactly how you want it, paint all the parts and re-assembled tightly with loctite: Install the shift lever into the base and insert the bearing retainer circlip. Connect the selector rod (now is a good time to replace the selector rod joint, shift shaft seal, and the yellow washers on the selector rod). Make sure you are able to get into all gears without binding, and you are ready to go! Another thing to note: I designed mine to accept the BMW motorsport golfball shift knob which presses onto the shaft. You could also use a die to cut m12 threads into the top of the rod to use one of the many available thread-on shift knobs. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xhddb2buY0
  16. Member Spotlight - Feb 2018

    <3 Nerd moment: AWII ended on E36's around 1993, 94+ would be AWIII
  17. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    My normal winter setup: General Altimax Arctic, 205/55/16
  18. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    Pretty much whatever you want. The tire classes are studded, winter/snow (tires with the snowflake/mountain logo), and all-season
  19. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    Update: I finished 1st in the RWD/snow tire class! http://fvscc.com/results/2018_Winter/Event3Combined.htm
  20. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    Not a bad alternative, the weather was great for just about anything out on the lake!
  21. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    Photos from this weekend (Photo credit to Austin Boynton, full album):
  22. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    $30 for non-members, $20 for members. Best deal ever
  23. 1999 M3 daily driver running log

    136.8k: Air filter was way overdue so I replaced that and cleaned the MAF. It runs noticeably smoother and I seem to have gained 1-2mpg. More importantly, I finally got this out for some ///Motorsport... Spent my Sunday at the FVSCC ice rally-x on Lake Poygan. It was an absolute riot and I highly recommend it, I'm definitely going to try and make it to at least one more this winter. The conditions were fantastic and I really started to get the hang of it by the end of the day. Between practice, the timed runs, and a re-run, I got to run the course nearly 20 times! And considering I only found the wrong side of a snowbank twice and my car ended the day in the same condition as it started, I'd call it a pretty successful day.
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